Barcelona guide
by Europe5050.
March 2009 with Michael & Wendy
See Barcelona’s port activity from a different perspective, either from the air or the sea. The telefèric cable cars offer sweeping, bird’seye views of Barcelona and its coast, while the old-fashioned Les Golondrines boats and the Orsom Catamaran sweep you around the port area.
Trains run throughout Spain and the rest of Europe from Estació de Sants and Estació de França. Both stations have lockers, ATMs and bureaux de change. RENFE is Spain’s national train company.
The site of the Plaça de Sant Jaume (see Perfect Squares) was once the nucleus of Roman Barcino. With these roots, it seems fitting that the square has become home to Barcelona’s two most important government buildings: the Palau de la Generalitat (seat of the Catalan government) and the Ajuntament (city hall). Look for the detailed carved relief of Sant Jordi, Catalonia’s patron saint, on the 15th–century Generalitat façade. Within is the lovely 15th–century Capella de Sant Jordi (Capella de Sant Jordi), designed by architect Marc Safont. A highlight of the Gothic Ajuntament is the lavish red-and-gold Saló de Cent, where the Council of One Hundred ruled the city from 1372 to 1714. Also of note is the Pati dels Tarongers, a graceful patio with orange trees.
This square boasts one of the largest intact sections of Barcelona’s Roman walls.
The city’s most prestigious concert hall is a monument to both la musica Catalana and to Modernisme . See Palau de la Música Catalana.
For an artist, a wealthy patron spells survival. The luck of young Gaudí turned when count Eusebi Güell recognized his talents. In 1886, Güell commissioned Gaudí to build a mansion that would set the count apart from his wealthy neighbours. The result is the Palau Güell, one of Gaudí’s earliest works. An imposing façade gives way to an elaborate interior of lavish pillars and carved wooden ceilings, while the rooftop has a melange of mosaic chimneys.
It is one of the masterpieces by the famous architect Antoni Gaudí, inscribed in UNESCO World Heritage list.
A key work of Modernisme (Catalan Art Nouveau), where you can visit different rooms, mainly those in the first floor, and also the courtyard, the stairs and the magnificent attic and rooftop. It is an artistic expression of life, where Gaudí managed to create a light and clear atmosphere, as if you were swimming into deep blue waters, under the daylight sun, using an impressive combination of glass, wood, stone, ceramics and iron.
The colourful Casa Batlló is the result of a total refurbishment of an old and conventional house built in 1877. Gaudí was commissioned by the owner, the textile industrialist Josep Batlló i Casanovas, to totally renew the old building. On that base, he projected this astonishing house, one of the most fancy and "special" of Barcelona. His work was done between 1904 and 1906.
Along with two Modernist works, the Casa Amatller by Puig i Cadafalch (1900) and the Casa Lleó Morera by Domènech i Montaner (1905), the Casa Batlló makes up the "Manzana de la Discordia" (Block of Discord).
In the heart of the Barri Gòtic is the beautifully preserved, medieval Plaça del Rei (Perfect Squares), presided over by the 13th- to 14th-century Palau Reial (royal palace). The impressive palace complex includes the Saló del Tinell, a massive hall crowned by Gothic arches, where Ferdinand and Isabel welcomed Columbus after his 1492 voyage to the Americas. The medieval Capella de Santa Àgata has a beautiful 15th-century altarpiece by Jaume Huguet. A visit to the Museu d`Història de la Ciutat gives access to the Palau Reial and to one of the largest underground excavations of Roman ruins on display in Europe.
Unmistakably Gaudí, this Modernista marvel seems to grow from the very pavement itself. Fluid and eerily alive, its curving façade sprouts writhing wrought-iron balconies. A cluster of mosaic chimneys keeps watch over the rooftop like shrewd-eyed knights (La Pedrera).
A portside warren of narrow streets, small squares and ancient bars, this traditional neighbourhood of pescadors (fishermen) and mariners (sailors) seems worlds apart from the megamalls and disco lights of nearby Port Olímpic. A refreshing foray through this tight-knit community yields a glimpse into the way Barcelona was 150 years ago. Older couples still pull chiars out onto the street to gossip and watch the world go by, and small seafood restaurants serve a menú del dia of whatever’s fresh off the boat. Running the length of Barceloneta’s western edge is Passeig Joan de Borbó, which is lined with restaurants serving mariscs (shellfish) and paellas.
An incomparable blend of art and architecture, this spacious museum, awash with natural light, showcases the work of Joan Miró, one of Catalonia’s greatest 20th-century artists. Paintings, sculptures, drawings and textiles represent 60 prolific years. See Fundació Joan Miró.
The site of the Plaça de Sant Jaume (see Perfect Squares) was once the nucleus of Roman Barcino. With these roots, it seems fitting that the square has become home to Barcelona’s two most important government buildings: the Palau de la Generalitat (seat of the Catalan government) and the Ajuntament (city hall). Look for the detailed carved relief of Sant Jordi, Catalonia’s patron saint, on the 15th–century Generalitat façade. Within is the lovely 15th–century Capella de Sant Jordi (Capella de Sant Jordi), designed by architect Marc Safont. A highlight of the Gothic Ajuntament is the lavish red-and-gold Saló de Cent, where the Council of One Hundred ruled the city from 1372 to 1714. Also of note is the Pati dels Tarongers, a graceful patio with orange trees.
A verdant oasis in the city centre, Barcelona’s largest park is criss-crossed with pleasant paths. It boasts a zoo, two museums, and a lavish Modernista fountain. See Parc de la Ciutadella.
Morning
Taking the northern route of the Bus Tourístic (Tours & Trips) is the easiest way to negotiate the vast northern area of the city; it also gives discounts on entrance to major sights en route. Start off at Plaça de Catalunya (tickets can be bought on board) and sit on the top deck for a good view of the Modernista magic along Pg de Gràcia. Make the whimsical Parc Güell your first stop and spend the morning ambling around Gaudí’s other-worldly park. Get back on the bus and continue north to the southern end of Av Tibidabo. Walk about 500 m (1600 ft) up Av Tibidabo and stop off for a leisurely lunch in the garden of the palatial El Asador d’Aranda see Restaurants & Tapas Bars.
Afternoon
After you’ve had your fill of fine Castilian cuisine, continue strolling up Av Tibidabo to Plaça Doctor Andreu where you can hop on the steep funicular train to go higher still to Plaça de Tibidabo. Pop into the Parc d’Atraccions (Parc d’Atraccions del Tibidabo) for a ride on the dod-gems or the Ferris wheel. Then head to the landmark Torre de Collserola (Torre de Collserola), where a glass elevator whisks you up to an observation deck for spectacular views. Return to Plaça Doctor Andreu on the funicular and treat yourself to a granissat (Top 10 Café Drinks) in one of the terrace bars. Then go down Av Tibidabo on the charming Tramvia Blau and catch the Bus Tourístic back to the city centre.
Morning
Begin your port passeig (stroll) with a visit to the Museu Marítim (Museu Marítim), where you can see Barcelona’s status as one of the most active ports in the Mediterranean. From here, head towards the Monument a Colom (La Rambla), and stroll the Moll de la Fusta to admire the Pailebot Santa Eulàlia, which has been immaculately restored by the museum. Saunter down the Rambla de Mar (Rambla de Mar), an undulating wooden drawbridge that leads to the glitzy Maremagnum mega-mall. At the start of the pier, embark on the Orsom Catamaran, where you can grab a drink and snack and soak up the rays and the port skyline, while sprawled out on a net just inches above the water. Back on land, about 90 minutes later, stroll down the Moll d’Espanya and turn towards the traditional fisherman’s quarter of Barceloneta, an atmospheric pocket of narrow streets and timeworn bars. Get a real taste of old-style Barcelona at the boisterous tapas bar, El Vaso de Oro (C/Balboa 6). Wedge yourself in at the bar and savour some tasty seafood morsels.
Afternoon
Revived, head to Pg Joan de Borbó and make for the beach. Douse yourself in the Med, then siesta in the afternoon sun. Pick yourself up with sangria at the beachside Salamanca Chiringuito (at the end of Pg Joan de Borbó), where you can bury your feet in the sand and watch the waves lap on the shore as the sun dips into the horizon.
Barcelona’s centrepiece, this 1-km (0.6-mile) long, thriving pedestrian thoroughfare cuts a wide swathe through the old town, from Plaça de Catalunya to the glistening Mediterranean. See La Rambla.
The stately Palau Nacional is home to the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (MNAC), which holds one of the most extensive collections of Romanesque art in the world. The works were rescued from churches around Catalonia in the 1920s. See Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya.
Housed in a medieval palace complex, this museum charts Picasso’s rise to fame with an extensive collection of his early works, including numerous masterful portraits painted at the age of 13. See Museu Picasso.
The spacious, breathtaking interior of this 14th–century church, designed by architect Berenguer de Montagut, is the city’s premier example of the austere Catalan Gothic style. The church is dedicated to Saint Mary of the Sea, the patron saint of sailors, and an ancient model ship hangs near one of the statues of the Virgin. Dubbed “the people’s church”, this is the city’s most popular spot for exchanging wedding vows.
This picturesque Gothic church (1342) has sculptures inside that date back to the 9th century.
Mere paces from La Rambla is the unexpected tranquillity of this Romanesque church, with a leafy, 15th–century, Gothic cloister.
Dominating the heart of the old town is this magnificent Gothic Cathedral, with a soaring, elaborate façade and a graceful, sun-dappled cloister containing palm trees and white geese. See Barcelona Cathedral.
The enduring symbol of the city and its Modernista legacy is this church, Gaudí’s other-worldly pièce de résistance. Piercing the Barcelona skyline are eight of the twelve planned spires that have so far been built. See Sagrada Família.
Gaudí's breathtaking church, still under construction. He put his life and soul into it, spending all his money on it, then begging strangers for more! It is different from every angle and most spectacular from the top; an amazing climb, but not for those wary of heights!
For over 75 years, this friendly, family restaurant has been delighting patrons with excellent Catalan cuisine at decent prices.
A French-Catalan restaurant housed in a 17th-century building. Home-style cuisine with a twist includes duck with figs and goose flavoured with pears.
Uptairs sells honey, preserves and other foods made in convents and monasteries all over Spain. Downstairs you can sample all the delicacies in a cozy café on the site of a 15th century baths.
Superb Catalan cuisine and top-notch desserts are served at this restaurant in an 18th-century building.
In summer, bask in the old town’s medieval atmosphere at the Plaça del Rei terrace. By night, sip Rioja in the intimate, rustic basement bodega.
Taste the tantalizing tapas, including the finest cured hams, at this established eatery.
The Església de Santa Maria del Pi casts a shadow over this café’s terrace. And for when you’re in that kick-back-and-do-nothing mode, street artists keep you entertained.
Plaça Comercial is dotted with cafés, including the laid-back Café del Born, which evolves into an amiable bar as night descends.
At the foot of the Columbus statue (La Rambla), this long-time café is a choice spot to soak up the rays, knock back a beer and people-watch.
A boisterous tapas bar serving champagne, pitchers of cider and generous portions of tapas.
A classy, yet cosy, bar attracting wine lovers from all over the city, who come to sample a rich array of Spanish and international varieties in the company of other wine aficionados.
The name means "the snails", but every time I have been there it has been the spit roasted chicken that has taken my fancy.
Located on a side street off the bottom of the Ramblas it is not that hard to find. Follow your nose to the before mentioned chickens. Service is brisk and they coped with a big group no problems.
Wonderful food at very reasonable prices, after your meal have a glass of dessert wine, some from the 1920s. Liquid nectar!
The “Salt Cellar” has an all-white interior offset by flickering candles. An innovative menu features Mediterranean-Asian fusion cuisine.
Excellent Catalan cuisine, including speciality bacalao (cod) and butifarra (sausage), is the deal at this elegant restaurant.
Dine under the Plaça Reial’s arches at this stylish restaurant in a former taxidermist’s shop. The first-rate menu offers the likes of white tuna with capers.
At the large bar enjoy great Basque-style pinchos (tapas), from cured ham to creamy crab salad. The restaurant serves superb Basque fish and meat dishes.
A cacophonous shrine to food, this cavernous market has it all, from stacks of fruit to suckling pigs and writhing lobsters.
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