Frances's Barcelona guide
by lfrances.
August 2008
Morning
To get to the Fundació Joan Miró (Fundació Joan Miró) before the crowds and with energy to spare, hop on the funicular from Paral·lel metro station. From here it is a short walk to the museum, where you’ll need an hour and a half to absorb the impressive collection of Miró paintings, sketches and sculptures. When you’ve had your fill of contemporary art, refuel with a cafè amb llet (Top 10 Café Drinks) on the restaurant terrace before backtracking along Av de Miramar and jumping on the cable car up to Castell de Montjuïc (Castell de Montjuïc & Museu Militar). Wander the castle gardens and look out over the city and the bustling docks. Return to Av de Miramar by cable car and follow the signs to the Palau Nacional (Palau Nacional & Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya), where you can lunch on typical Catalan cuisine with a modern twist in the grandiose Oval Room (Restaurants, Cafés, Bars & Clubs).
Afternoon
Afterwards, spend an hour perusing the MNAC ’s (Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya) extraordinary Romanesque art collection. When you exit, turn right and then follow the signs to the Olympic complex. The Estadi Olímpic is worth a look, but the silver-domed Palau Sant Jordi steals the limelight. Nearby, at Bernat Picornell, spend the late afternoon cooling down with a dip in the fantastic open-air pool. If it’s summer, there may even be a film showing. From here it is just a short stroll to the Poble Espanyol where you can settle in at a terrace bar in Plaça de Mayor and sip a cuba libre as night descends.
Morning
Taking the northern route of the Bus Tourístic (Tours & Trips) is the easiest way to negotiate the vast northern area of the city; it also gives discounts on entrance to major sights en route. Start off at Plaça de Catalunya (tickets can be bought on board) and sit on the top deck for a good view of the Modernista magic along Pg de Gràcia. Make the whimsical Parc Güell your first stop and spend the morning ambling around Gaudí’s other-worldly park. Get back on the bus and continue north to the southern end of Av Tibidabo. Walk about 500 m (1600 ft) up Av Tibidabo and stop off for a leisurely lunch in the garden of the palatial El Asador d’Aranda see Restaurants & Tapas Bars.
Afternoon
After you’ve had your fill of fine Castilian cuisine, continue strolling up Av Tibidabo to Plaça Doctor Andreu where you can hop on the steep funicular train to go higher still to Plaça de Tibidabo. Pop into the Parc d’Atraccions (Parc d’Atraccions del Tibidabo) for a ride on the dod-gems or the Ferris wheel. Then head to the landmark Torre de Collserola (Torre de Collserola), where a glass elevator whisks you up to an observation deck for spectacular views. Return to Plaça Doctor Andreu on the funicular and treat yourself to a granissat (Top 10 Café Drinks) in one of the terrace bars. Then go down Av Tibidabo on the charming Tramvia Blau and catch the Bus Tourístic back to the city centre.
Morning
Begin your port passeig (stroll) with a visit to the Museu Marítim (Museu Marítim), where you can see Barcelona’s status as one of the most active ports in the Mediterranean. From here, head towards the Monument a Colom (La Rambla), and stroll the Moll de la Fusta to admire the Pailebot Santa Eulàlia, which has been immaculately restored by the museum. Saunter down the Rambla de Mar (Rambla de Mar), an undulating wooden drawbridge that leads to the glitzy Maremagnum mega-mall. At the start of the pier, embark on the Orsom Catamaran, where you can grab a drink and snack and soak up the rays and the port skyline, while sprawled out on a net just inches above the water. Back on land, about 90 minutes later, stroll down the Moll d’Espanya and turn towards the traditional fisherman’s quarter of Barceloneta, an atmospheric pocket of narrow streets and timeworn bars. Get a real taste of old-style Barcelona at the boisterous tapas bar, El Vaso de Oro (C/Balboa 6). Wedge yourself in at the bar and savour some tasty seafood morsels.
Afternoon
Revived, head to Pg Joan de Borbó and make for the beach. Douse yourself in the Med, then siesta in the afternoon sun. Pick yourself up with sangria at the beachside Salamanca Chiringuito (at the end of Pg Joan de Borbó), where you can bury your feet in the sand and watch the waves lap on the shore as the sun dips into the horizon.
Morning
Start your ramble mid-morning by perusing the innovative temporary art exhibits at the CCCB (Centre de Cultura Contemporània & Foment de les Arts Decoratives). Here the two world’s have meshed harmoniously. The eye-catching blend of old-meets-new in this cutting-edge art space provides a fitting introduction to El Raval’s new identity. Head south along C/Montalegre to the Plaça dels Àngels. Sip a coffee beneath the Gothic arches of the restored Convent dels Àngels, which houses the café-restaurant and art and design exhibition rooms of Foment de les Arts Decoratives. See Centre de Cultura Contemporània & Foment de les Arts Decoratives. Round off your art amble with a trip down nearby C/Doctor Dou, which is speckled with commercial art galleries. If you’re looking for contemporary art to jazz up your home, pop in to Alter Ego or Cotthem Gallery (Galleries & Design Shops).
Afternoon
From here, it’s a short saunter to Mercat de La Boqueria (La Rambla). Walk along C/Carme, turn left onto C/Jerusalem, and go into the back entrance of this cavernous market. Make a beeline for El Quim de La Boqueria (stall 584–585) where you can pull up a stool and dig into fresh fare from baby prawns drizzled in olive oil and garlic to steamed mussels. After, head to the medieval gardens of the Antic Hospital de la Santa Creu, off C/Hospital, and take in the Gothic ambience of pillared arcades and courtyards. Then, get to Marsella (Bars & Clubs), and kick-start the evening with an absinthe before making for London Bar (Bars & Clubs), where live music awaits.
Morning
Starting at the Jaume I metro, enter the ancient walled city of Barcino on C/Llibreteria, once the main road to and from Rome. Head right up C/Veguer to Plaça del Rei (Perfect Squares) and descend into a fascinating underground web of Roman walls and waterways via the Museu d’Història de la Ciutat (Roman Barcelona). Also visible here are the remains of a 2nd-century workshop and an ancient bodega, a source of much Roman merrymaking. Back above ground, pause for a cafè sol at the terrace of Café-Bar L’Antiquari (Cafés & Light Eats) and bask in Barcelona’s Gothic glory days. Stroll towards the Cathedral’s spires along C/de la Pietat. Turn right onto C/Bisbe, once a Roman thoroughfare, then right again on Av de la Catedral to visit the Pia Almoina (Pia Almoina & Museu Diocesà), where you can view a section of the Roman aqueduct and ride a glass elevator past Roman wall remains. Backtrack to Plaça Nova, once the Roman gateway to Barcino, cross the plaça and continue along C/Arcs.
Afternoon
Stop for lunch at the Reial Cercle Artístic, a late 19th-century artists’ society. Ignore the “members only” sign; the restaurant is open to the public, and its tranquil balcony terrace provides a welcome breather from the crowds far below. After lunch, head up Av del Portal de l’Àngel and turn left onto C/Canuda to Plaça de la Vila de Madrid (Plaça de la Vila de Madrid). The square is a fitting end to your Roman ramble, for here are the necropolis remains, where Romans came to rest.
Morning
From Barcelona take the AP7 motorway until exit 4, then take the C260 to Cadaqués. The journey should take about two and a half hours in all. Just before dropping down to the town, stop at the viewpoint and take in the azure coastline and the whitewashed houses of this former fishing village. Once in Cadaqués, now one of Catalonia’s trendiest beach towns, wander the quaint boutique-filled streets. After a splash in the sea and a coffee on one of the chic terrace cafés, take the road leaving Port Lligat and head for the Cap de Creus (National Parks & Nature Reserves) lighthouse. Drive through the desolately beautiful landscape of this rocky headland before doubling back and heading off to Port de la Selva. The road twists and winds interminably, but the picture-perfect scenery will leave you speechless.
Afternoon
Stop in the tiny, mountain-enclosed Port de la Selva for an excellent seafood lunch at the Cala Herminda. Then drive to the neighbouring village of Selva del Mar with its tiny river and have a post-prandial coffee on the terrace of the Bar Stop before continuing up to the Monestir Sant Pere de Rodes (Churches & Monasteries). You’ll be tempted to stop several times on the way up to take in the views. Don’t, because the best is to be had from the monastery, which offers an incredible sweeping vista of the whole area. There are plenty of well-signposted walks around the mountain top here and it is worth staying put to see the sun set slowly over the bay.
Morning
Pop into the decrepit chess bar El Pato Loco (cnr Diputació & Aribau) to get a sepia picture of Barcelona that hasn’t changed for a century. Wake up with a cafè solo and watch the old men playing speed-chess, then stroll around the gardens of the Universitat. Head east along Gran Via past the elegant Palace Barcelona Hotel (Luxury Hotels), and right down C/Bruc for your first real taste of Catalan Art Nouveau, with Gaudí’s Casa Calvet (After-Dark Venues) on C/Casp. Turn right onto C/Casp and walk three blocks west to the majestic Pg de Gràcia; then go right again three blocks to the impressive buildings known as the Mansana de la Discòrdia (Mansana de la Discòrdia) and the Perfume Museum (Top 10 Quirky Museums/Monuments). Sniff around Regia perfume shop (Design Shops) before continuing north to marvel at Gaudí’s La Pedrera (La Pedrera). Feeling peckish? Stop at Tragaluz on Ptge de la Concepció (After-Dark Venues). The set menu is an economical way to experience this glitterati hang-out.
Afternoon
After lunch, head north on Pg de Gràcia, turn right along Diagonal, taking in the fairy-tale Casa de les Punxes at No. 416 (Casa de les Punxes (Casa Terrades)). Walk along Diagonal, making a detour left at Pg Sant Joan to see Palau Macaya at No. 108. Then stroll along C/Mallorca to the Sagrada Família (Sagrada Família). Here you can take in the Nativity Façade and rest weary legs in the Plaça de Gaudí before climbing the bell towers for a breathtaking view of the city.
Dominating the heart of the old town is this magnificent Gothic Cathedral, with a soaring, elaborate façade and a graceful, sun-dappled cloister containing palm trees and white geese. See Barcelona Cathedral.
Dating from around 1040, this cathedral is one of the most elegant in Catalonia.
Barcelona’s centrepiece, this 1-km (0.6-mile) long, thriving pedestrian thoroughfare cuts a wide swathe through the old town, from Plaça de Catalunya to the glistening Mediterranean. See La Rambla.
At the heart of the city’s Quadrat d’Or (Golden Square) lies this stunning block of houses. Literally “the block of discord”, the Mansana de la Discòrdia is so-called because of the dramatic contrast of its three flagship buildings. Built between 1900 and 1907 by the three Modernista greats, rival architects Gaudí, Domènech i Montaner and Puig i Cadafalch, the buildings were commissioned by competing bourgeois families. Domènech is represented by the ornate Casa Lleó Morera (Modernista Buildings); Puig makes his mark with the Gothic-inspired Casa Amatller (Modernista Buildings); and Gaudí flaunts his architectural prowess with Casa Battló (Modernista Buildings). All boast superb interiors – sadly closed to the public – with the exception of Casa Battló. The lesser-known houses at Nos. 37 and 39 add to the overall splendour of the block. The Perfume Museum at No. 39 is heaven for scent-lovers (Top 10 quirky Museums/Monuments).
The city’s most prestigious concert hall is a monument to both la musica Catalana and to Modernisme . See Palau de la Música Catalana.
The enduring symbol of the city and its Modernista legacy is this church, Gaudí’s other-worldly pièce de résistance. Piercing the Barcelona skyline are eight of the twelve planned spires that have so far been built. See Sagrada Família.
Unmistakably Gaudí, this Modernista marvel seems to grow from the very pavement itself. Fluid and eerily alive, its curving façade sprouts writhing wrought-iron balconies. A cluster of mosaic chimneys keeps watch over the rooftop like shrewd-eyed knights (La Pedrera).
Illustrating Gaudí’s nationalist sentiments, Casa Batlló, on La Mansana de la Discòrdia (Modernista Buildings), represents an allegory of the legend of Sant Jordi see Charming Churches & Chapels. The roof is the dragon’s back and the balconies, sculpted in the form of carnival masks, are the skulls of the dragon’s victims. The polychrome façade reveals Gaudí’s remarkable use of colour and texture.
Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984, this heady brew of architectural wizardry includes trencadís tiling, a serpentine bench, fairy-tale pavilions, Gothic archways, and the columned Sala Hipóstila (originally intended as a market hall). In true Gaudí style, playfulness and symbolism pervade every aspect of the park. The Casa-Museu Gaudí, where Gaudí lived for 20 years, is dedicated to the architect’s life.
This palace is a fine example of Gaudí’s experiments with structure, especially the use of parabolic arches to orchestrate space. Also remarkable is the use of unusual building materials, such as ebony and rare South American woods. See Palau Güell).
Housed in a medieval palace complex, this museum charts Picasso’s rise to fame with an extensive collection of his early works, including numerous masterful portraits painted at the age of 13. See Museu Picasso.
Salvador Dalí was born in the town of Figueres in 1904. Paying tribute to the artist is the fantastic circular Teatre-Museu Dalí which is full of his eccentric works. The country’s second-most-visited museum (after the Prado in Madrid), housed in a former theatre, it provides a unique insight into the artist’s extraordinary creations, from La Cesta de Pan (1926) to El Torero Alucinogeno (1970). Twenty minutes’ drive away, near the lovely beach town of Cadaqués, the Dalí connection continues. Here you can visit the Casa-Museu Salvador Dalí, the artist’s summer house for nearly 60 years until his death in 1989.
A celebration of chocolate, with interactive exhibits, edible city models and tastings.
The dramatic mount of Montserrat, with its remote Benedictine monastery (dating from 1025), is a religious symbol and a place of pilgrimage for the Catalan people. The Basilica houses a statue of Catalonia’s patron virgin, La Moreneta, also know as the “Black Virgin”. Some legends date the statue to AD 50, but research suggests it was carved in the 12th century. The monastery itself was largely destroyed in 1811 during the War of Independence, and rebuilt some 30 years later. Montserrat forms part of a ridge of mountains that rise suddenly from the plains. Take the funicular to the mountain’s unspoilt peaks, where paths run alongside spectacular gorges to numerous hermitages.
Barcelona’s most famous food market is conveniently located on La Rambla (La Rambla). Freshness reigns supreme and shoppers are spoiled for choice, with hundreds of stalls selling everything from vine-ripened tomatoes to haunches of beef and moist wedges of Manchego cheese. The city’s seaside status is in full evidence at the fish stalls.
High-end clothing stores dot Passeig de Gràcia and Avinguda Diagonal. For trendier gear, head to Carrer Portaferrissa and Carrer Pelai. Spain’s success story is the wildly popular men’s and women’s contemporary clothing chain Zara, which is all over town (and all over Europe). Another universal favourite is Mango, targeted towards younger women, which also has branches all over the city. If you’re looking to buy local, there are a number of top-end Catalan designers, including Antonio Miró.
One of three branches in Barcelona, Zucca offers a superb range of ultra-stylish fashion accessories. The stock includes plastic flowers for your hair and stick-on navel rings.
From zebra platform shoes to bellybutton rings and pastel baby T-shirts, this street’s other name could well be Carrer “Trendy”. Along this strip you’ll find El Mercadillo (Shops: Gifts, Garments & Goodies) minimall, crammed with hip little shops selling spiked belts, frameless sunglasses, surf wear and the like. Just off this street is Galeries Maldà, Barcelona’s first shopping gallery, with a range of shops and a cinema showing original version classics (Top 10 Versi Original Cinemas).
Barcelona’s grand avenue of lavish Modernista buildings is fittingly home to the city’s premier fashion and design stores. From the international big league (Chanel, Hermès, Swatch) to Spain’s heavy hitters (Loewe, Zara, Mango; (Shopping Tips), it’s all here. And topping the interior design list is the perennially popular Vinçon Design Shops. Side streets reveal more sublime shopping, notably Carrer Consell de Cent, which is dotted with art galleries, and carrers Mallorca, València and Roselló.
A designer gift shop with a steel-tiled floor and a psychedelic colour scheme. Concentrates on selling “made in Barcelona” items, which make for unusual souvenirs.
Check out the ongoing exhibitions hosted by FAD, a century-old arts, crafts and design organization. Also here is Items d’Ho, a quirky shop selling creative furnishings, bags and jewellery.
The owner designs and sells her own leather accessories: wallets, bags and a few gifts. Classy designs are well made and well priced.
This small boutique sells interesting women’s and children’s hand-made, original shoes as well as bags, handknitted scarves and other crafted accessories.
José provides his own original in-house creations for men and women; he also sells crafted accessories, including handbags, by young local designers.
If the glistening pastries and towering chocolate creations aren’t enough of a lure, then the Modernista store-front certainly is. Buy goodies to go, or enjoy them on the spot in the small café.
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