At the heart of Beijing is tradition, given physical form in the mighty Forbidden City, from where successive imperial dynasties have ruled since the 15th century. Neighboring Tian’an Men Square is the China of recent history, of red-flag socialism and Mao. But this is also a city on the move, as an all-pervading spirit of change makes Beijing the most 21st-century of capitals.
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The chou are the comic characters and they’re denoted by white patches on their noses. Patches of different shape and size mean roles of different character. It is the chou who keep the audience laughing.
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Not a traditional Chinese holiday but the festivities have been adopted via Hong Kong, which means that there is a stress on the commercial aspect. High-street stores are bedecked with Shengdan Laoren, the Chinese version of Father Christmas.
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Situated on a steep mountainside, Chuandixia is a crumbling but still picturesque hamlet of courtyard houses (siheyuan), most dating from the Ming and Qing dynasties. An entry ticket allows access to the entire village, all of which can be explored in a few hours. The population consists of about 70 people spread over a handful of families. Accommodation with one of the families can be provided for those wanting an experience of rural hospitality.
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In any area with lots of bars and clubs you’ll find street vendors selling chuan’r (kabobs). They cost just a few yuan per skewer.
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The low cost and wide-spread availability of pirate DVDs means that most Beijingers stay home to watch their movies. So despite a vibrant home movie industry, decent cinemas are few in number. Add to which, there is a cap on the number of imported foreign-language films shown each year.
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Sound mid-range option within walking distance of Sanlitun’s bars, restaurants, and shops. Rooms are clean and comfortable enough, if a little dated. Staff speak some English.
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Take the chance to attend a Chinese orchestral performance if at all possible. Sections of unfamiliar plucked string, bowed string, woodwind, and percussion instruments compete for attention in swirling arrangements. The main venues are the Forbidden City Concert Hall in Zhong Shan Park and the National Grand Theater (see National Grand Theater).
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The colors of the performers’ painted faces symbolize the individual characters’ qualities. Red, for example, represents loyalty and courage. Purple stands for solemnity and a sense of justice, green for bravery and irascibility.
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Rooms are tastefully decorated, with desks, comfortable sofas, and plush new duvets. It caters more for business people on lengthy stays, so service can be found wanting.
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Eleven modern villas by 11 Asian architects dot a green valley within sight of the Great Wall. Facilities include DVD players, an indoor pool, and a private cinema. Managed by Kempinski.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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