At the heart of Beijing is tradition, given physical form in the mighty Forbidden City, from where successive imperial dynasties have ruled since the 15th century. Neighboring Tian’an Men Square is the China of recent history, of red-flag socialism and Mao. But this is also a city on the move, as an all-pervading spirit of change makes Beijing the most 21st-century of capitals.
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A handful of charming, private rooms set around a courtyard garden. Serves light and fragrant Huaiyang cuisine.
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Cricket season in Beijing has nothing to do with the genteel English game. The Chinese version involves ruthless antennae-on-antennae action as cricket-fanciers goad their insects into battle in the plastic bowls that serve as gladiatorial arenas. Once the favorite sport of emperors it now takes place in backstreets all over town.
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Better range, accuracy, and penetration than the standard bow.
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Comfortable rooms with tasteful decoration give onto a nine-story atrium. Reasonable value, and within walking distance of Wangfujing and the Forbidden City.
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Recently renovated and cheap given the location. Rooms are simple but clean, and surprisingly large. Staff are more pleasant than is usual for a Chinese hotel.
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The one “tenth anniversary” building of elegance. Its plan forms the Chinese character for “mountain.”
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Stone-top tables and tree-stump seats, but a bit out of the way up in Haidian.
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Not so much an art festival as an arts circus, incorporating music, dance, and performance.
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Dan are the female roles. Laodan are old ladies and caidan the female comedians, while wudan are the martial artists. The most important category, qingyi, usually play respectable and decent ladies in elegant costumes.
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Running west off the northern end of Qian Men Dajie is Dazhalan Jie, an old hutong area that is great for exploring on foot or by rickshaw. It is full of quaint Qing-era specialty shops selling pickles, silks, tea, and traditional Chinese medicine. To the west of Dazhalan is Liulichang Jie, with more restored buildings and many fascinating antique shops.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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Restaurant price categories
For the equivalent of a meal for two made up of a range of dishes, served with tea, and including service.
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