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Developed alongside the writing system and led to mathematical advances.

Hottest souvenirs from Beijing are top-label international brands, sold here for a fraction of the cost back home. They are all, of course, fakes – almost passable copies but poorer quality. Those whose copyrights are being infringed have begun to take legal action and the days of the fakes may be numbered.

Chinese-managed hotel in a hutong close to Wangfujing. Staff speak little English, but rooms are bright and airy with clean bathrooms. Those on upper floors offer pleasant views.

Large green spaces and cypress trees, and the striking Temple of Earth (see Di Tan Park).

In a series of hangar-like buildings southeast of SOHO, traders sell just about anything and everything. It is where restaurants and hotels buy pots and pans, schools come for classroom supplies, service staff buy uniforms, and small traders and cooks come for fresh fruit and vegetables. You may not need a carton of 1,000 chopsticks, but it is fascinating to browse, all the same.

This is where the traders from Beijing’s other markets come to buy their stock (see Dong Jiao Wholesale Market).

Good value in the heart of one of Beijing’s most vibrant hutongs. It’s also minutes from the lakes, and myriad restaurants and bars. Offers clean single rooms, doubles with attached bath, and 6–8 bed dorms, plus bike hire and laundry.

Drums thunder and paddles churn up the water as dragon-headed craft compete for top honors. The festival remembers the honest official, Qu Yuan, who, the story goes, drowned him-self 2,500 years ago after banishment from the court of the Duke of Chu. Shocked citizens threw rice cakes into the water to distract the fish from nibbling on his body, hence the wholesale consumption of these delicacies on this date every year.