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Drum towers (gu lou) were once found in all major Chinese towns. They housed large drums that were beaten to mark the hour, keeping the city’s civil servants on time for work. There has been such a tower on this site since 1272, although the current structure dates to 1420. Visitors can clamber up the torturously steep steps to inspect some 25 drums and be entertained by a troop of drummers that delivers skin-thumping performances on the hour.

Supposedly named after Yang Guifei, an imperial concubine overly fond of her alcohol. The dish is prepared using Chinese wine and is served cold.

Age-old restaurant that specializes in baozi (steamed buns).

Centuries-old corner snack shop serving baozi (steamed buns).

Occasional two-hour highlights shows.

Opened by legendary jazzman Liu Yuan. Climb steep wooden stairs to four walls of floor-to-ceiling windows and a roof terrace, plus live music.

The remoteness of the Eastern Qing Tombs, over the border in Hebei province, makes them far less popular than their Ming counterparts, despite the fact that the setting is even more splendid. In fact, the Eastern Qing Tombs make up the largest and most complete imperial cemetery in China, built on a scale as grand as the Forbidden City. Of the many tombs here, only five are the burial places of Qing emperors, but there are also 14 empresses, and 136 imperial consorts. Notable are the tomb of the Qianlong Emperor, with an incredible tomb chamber adorned with Buddhist carvings, and the lavish tomb of the devious Empress Cixi.

Two blocks north of the famed Night Market, the location is hard to beat. It’s a fairly modest place but looking quite spruce after a 2005 refit.Staff are well used to dealing with foreigners and there’s a travel advisory service, booking center, bicycle rental, and internet.