DK Travel : Beijing

At the heart of Beijing is tradition, given physical form in the mighty Forbidden City, from where successive imperial dynasties have ruled since the 15th century. Neighboring Tian’an Men Square is the China of recent history, of red-flag socialism and Mao. But this is also a city on the move, as an all-pervading spirit of change makes Beijing the most 21st-century of capitals.

500,000 BC: Peking Man hunts and gathers

Unearthed in the 1920s from a cave at Zhoukoudian, 30 miles (45 km) SW of Beijing, 40-odd fossilized bones and primitive implements were identified as the prehistoric remains of Peking Man (Homo erectus Pekinensis), who lived in the vicinity over 500,000 years ago.
798 Art District

When former electronic components factory 798 became a venue for cutting-edge contemporary art it kick-started a neighborhood trend for converting industrial spaces into galleries and chic cafés and bars (see 798 Art District).
798 Art District

Although it’s called the 798 Art District, Factory number 798 is only one of a number of former industrial units that have been taken over by artists and galleries to form what is often referred to as Beijing’s answer to New York’s Meatpacking District (see 798 Art District).
798 Space

For contemporary art the place to go is the 798 Art District, and this is the gallery that started it all (see 798 Space).
A Day Around Tian’an Men Square and Wangfujing Dajie

Morning

Arrive early to beat the crowds at Mao’s Mausoleum and shuffle through for the permitted few minutes in the presence of the Great Helmsman. The Forbidden City can be saved for another day, but climb the Tian’an Men for the views from the gallery. From the gate walk east along the Imperial City wall soon arriving at an entrance overlooked by most visitors: this leads to the Imperial Ancestral Temple, once one of the city’s most important places of worship. Carry on east; after the junction with Nan Chizi cutting back inside the wall to walk through pleasant Changpu He Park. One (long) block beyond the park is Wangfujing Dajie and the Oriental Plaza mall, with a superb food court in the basement.

Afternoon

Wander up Wangfujing Dajie, making sure to look in the chopstick and tea shops. At No. 74 is the attractive St. Joseph’s Church, which is well worth a look. Immediately before the church is a crossroads: head away from the church along Deng Shi Kou Jie looking for signs for Fengfu Hutong on your right. Here is the Former Residence of Writer Lao She, offering a glimpse into a way of life fast disappearing in Beijing. Retrace your steps down Wangfujing to Dong’an Men Dajie where the famous Night Market should by now be set up.
A Day in the Hutongs

Morning

Take the subway to Yonghe Gong for an early morning – and hopefully crowd-beating – visit to the Lama Temple. On leaving, cross over the main road and pass under the pailou (gate) at the entrance to Guozijian Jie for the Confucius Temple. Afterwards, take a break at the lovely Confucius Teahouse over the road. At the western end of Guozijian Jie turn left onto Anding Men Nei Dajie, a wide, shop-filled avenue and follow it south across Jiaodaokuo Dong Dajie and take the first right into Ju’er Hutong, one of the most vibrant of the city’s old alleys. Take the first left onto Nan Luogu Xiang, where at No. 108 you will find the charming Pass By Bar , which has a small courtyard that makes for an excellent lunchspot.

Afternoon

On leaving the Pass By, head west along Mao’er Hutong until you reach main Di’an Men Wai Dajie, where you turn right and head up the street for the splendid Drum and Bell Towers. Climb the towers to pick out the route you’ve just taken. Retrace your steps back down Di’an Men Wai Dajie taking the very first right, a tiny opening (usually marked by waiting taxis) leading into bustling Yandai Xie Jie. At the end of this crooked alley is the Silver Ingot Bridge; cross and bear left for Lotus Lane. You can stop here for coffee or head round the southern tip of the lake to Han Cang for a terrific meal of Hakka cuisine.
A Day South of Tian’an Men Square

Morning

Start on Tian’an Men Square, at the southeast corner beside the stripey brick Old Qian Men Railway Station, built by the British in 1901, partly to bring military forces straight to the assistance of foreigners in the event of a repeat of the siege of the Boxers. It’s now a shopping mall and Beijing Opera theater. Venture east along Dong Jiao Min Xiang into the Foreign Legation to visit the Police Museum (see Beijing Police Museum). On leaving head south to main Qian Men Dong Dajie and walk back west for a glimpse of the Beijing of the future at the Urban Planning Museum. From the museum, it is a short walk south into the hutongs for a fowl lunch at the legendary Liqun Roast Duck Restaurant .

Afternoon

After eating, if you walk south you’ll hit main Xianyukou Jie, which, followed west, becomes Dazhalan Jie. This is a great place for specialty shops. Located down the first alley on the left is century-old Liubiju, selling a vast array of pickles. Ruifuxiang, on the north side of Dazhalan, dates from 1893 and is renowned for silks. Tongrentang Pharmacy has been in business since 1669, while Zhangyiyuan Chazhuang has been trading teas since the early 20th century. At the end of Dazhalan, head north up Nan Xinhua Jie to the Ji Gu Ge Teahouse, to sample more teas in an atmospheric setting.
A Touch of Zen

(King Hu; 1969), Sword-play films, have been popular in China since the 1920s, but this revitalized the genre.
A Walk From Ri Tan Park to Sanlitun

Morning

The American-style diner Steak and Eggs (5 Xiushui Jie), which is behind the Friendship Store, opens for pancake-platter breakfasts at 7:30am. Well fed, head north up embassy-lined Jianhua Lu to enter Ri Tan Park via the south gate. This is one of the city’s best parks, with an old sacrificial altar, a rockery, and a small lake with the waterside Stone Boat café. Exit via the west gate onto Ritan Lu, which is lined by shops with signs in Cyrillic. This area is Yabao Lu, Beijing’s Russian neighborhood. Walk north to Aliens Street Market, a two-story jumble of cheap clothing, shoes, and cosmetics. Continue on to the next major junction and turn right on to busy Chaoyang Men Wai Dajie, lined with malls and the Dong Yue Miao temple.

Afternoon

Departing the temple, turn left and then take the second left into Gongren Lu. This takes you up to a park with a lake and then the Workers’ Stadium. Circle the stadium to exit via the north gate onto Gongren Tiyuchang Bei Lu. Head east until you come to a foot bridge, which allows you to cross this eight-lane boulevard safely. It deposits you in front of Yaxiu Market for more bargain shopping. Continue east until Sanlitun Bei Lu, the heart of the city’s entertainment district: bars The Tree and Bookworm , plus restaurant Alameda are all just a few minute’s walk from here.
Abacus

Invented during the Yuan dynasty and still in use throughout China today.