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Western kids play it with a football, passing the ball around with head, knees, and feet, the idea being not to let it touch the ground; the Chinese have their own version playing with what resembles a large plastic shuttlecock. It’s called jianzi and it is something of a national obsession, played by young and old alike, male and female.

Jing have stylized patterned, colored faces, and represent warriors, heroes, statesmen, adventurers, and demons. Not only are these characters the most striking looking but they also usually have the most forceful personalities.

A beautiful modernist restaurant dominated by a vast gleaming open kitchen. Watching a team of white-hatted chefs searing, caramelizing, and flash- frying is a sure way to build up an appetite, and the wine list is exemplary (see Jing).

Outstanding Asian-flavored fusion menu in refined surrounds (see Jing).

Jing Shan (Prospect Hill) lies immediately north of the Forbidden City. The hill was created from the earth that was excavated while building the moat around the palace complex during the reign of the Ming Yongle emperor. The hill’s purpose was to protect the emperor and his court from malign northern influences, which brought death and destruction according to classical feng shui. The park is dotted with pavilions and halls, but the highlight is the superb view south from the hill-top Wancheng Pavilion.

A hilly park with a pavilion providing views of the roofscape of the Forbidden City to the south (see Jing Shan Park).

Chinese military surplus store with badges, patches, and even uniforms.

Majors in Qingzhen – Hui or Muslim – cuisine, which means mutton. The house specialty is spiced barbecued lamb and sesame seed bread.

Near the new Nuren Jie embassy district, the Kempinski offers superb service and access to Western conveniences in the attached Lufthansa Center, including bars, restaurants, and high-end shopping.