At the heart of Beijing is tradition, given physical form in the mighty Forbidden City, from where successive imperial dynasties have ruled since the 15th century. Neighboring Tian’an Men Square is the China of recent history, of red-flag socialism and Mao. But this is also a city on the move, as an all-pervading spirit of change makes Beijing the most 21st-century of capitals.
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Scallions (spring onions) are a common Beijing ingredient and in this dish they are rapidly stir-fried along with sliced lamb, garlic, and a sweet-bean paste.
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Coinciding with a full moon, this festival marks the end of the 15-day Spring Festival celebrations. Lanterns bearing auspicious characters or in the shape of animals are hung everywhere. It is also a time for eating the sticky rice balls known as yuanxiaio.
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The beautiful red lanterns that see you see hanging all over Beijing make a fantastic and very affordable souvenir of China. An equally attractive variant are the table lamps with distinctive red, tulip-shaped shades. These should cost no more than a few yuan.
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Bustling institution serving traditional Beijing snacks. Kitsch but cheap and very tasty fare.
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Watching a cook make lao mian (hand-pulled noodles) is almost as enjoyable as eating them. First the dough is stretched and then swung like a skipping rope, so that it becomes plaited. The process is repeated until the strands of dough are as thin as string.
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One of the first in a recent renaissance of old-style Beijing teahouses. Performances of opera and acrobatics take place in a small, upstairs theater.
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Tea plus acrobatics, magic tricks, and Beijing Opera.
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Daily 90-minute variety shows that include Beijing Opera.
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Under the first emperor of the Mongol Yuan dynasty, Kublai Khan (r. 1260–1294), the city became known as Khanbalik, and was one of twin capitals – the other was Yuanshangdu, or Xanadu – of the largest empire ever known. The Italian traveler Marco Polo was dazzled by the imperial palace:“The building is altogether so vast and beautiful, that no man on earth could design anything superior to it.”
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When the Conventions of Peking ended the Second Opium War in 1860, foreign delegations were permitted to take up residence in a quarter southeast of the Forbidden City. On main Dong Jiao Min Xiang and surrounding streets, the first modern foreign buildings in Beijing took root. The embassies and Western institutions have long since left and new, mainly governmental occupants moved in, but the architecture left behind is visibly foreign. Two buildings worth visiting are the former City Bank of New York, now the very welcoming Beijing Police Museum, and St. Michael’s Church.
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Restaurant price categories
For the equivalent of a meal for two made up of a range of dishes, served with tea, and including service.
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