At the heart of Beijing is tradition, given physical form in the mighty Forbidden City, from where successive imperial dynasties have ruled since the 15th century. Neighboring Tian’an Men Square is the China of recent history, of red-flag socialism and Mao. But this is also a city on the move, as an all-pervading spirit of change makes Beijing the most 21st-century of capitals.
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Excellent location south of Tian’an Men Square, in among old lanes. Rooms range from 12-bed dorms to doubles; facilities range from bicycle hire to a second-hand book exchange.
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Intimate courtyard restaurant serving imperial court cuisine. Set menus range from ¥200 to ¥1,500 a head but the food is exquisite.
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Daily 80-minute highlights shows.
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Peking duck at this chaotic, little courtyard restaurant is usually sublime, despite the rough-and-ready ambience.
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A jar of Chinese pickles may not be high on your list of essentials, but a visit to this colorful, 400-year-old shop should be.
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Picturesque street renovated in the 1980s to give it that Old China look, but still fun to browse for antiques and art supplies (see Dazhalan & Liulichang).
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Lots of lakes, a kid’s amusement park, and an enchanting water-screen show.
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Another fine Yandai Xie Jie bar, this one squeezed into a narrow, two-story house with a compact, boho interior and roof terrace.
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Literally “donkeys rolling in dirt”: sweet red-bean paste in a rice dough dusted with peanut powder.
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The details are similar to those in other courtyard hotels, but here they add up to a more comfortable atmosphere. Rooms range from cheap youth hostel-style facilities right up to suites. There’s also a charming teahouse and well-stocked bookshelves.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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Restaurant price categories
For the equivalent of a meal for two made up of a range of dishes, served with tea, and including service.
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