At the heart of Beijing is tradition, given physical form in the mighty Forbidden City, from where successive imperial dynasties have ruled since the 15th century. Neighboring Tian’an Men Square is the China of recent history, of red-flag socialism and Mao. But this is also a city on the move, as an all-pervading spirit of change makes Beijing the most 21st-century of capitals.
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The first Catholic church to be built in Beijing stands on the site of the residence of the first Jesuit missionary to reach the city, Matteo Ricci. Arriving in 1601, the Italian won the favor of the Wanli emperor by presenting him with gifts of European curiosities such as clocks and mathematical instruments. Ricci founded the church in 1605, although the present building dates to 1904, replacing a structure that was burned down during the Boxer Rebellion. It boasts some fine stained-glass windows.
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Also known as St. Mary’s Church, this was Beijing’s first Catholic house of worship. It remains the largest functioning church, and has regular services in a variety of languages including Chinese, English, and Latin. Service times are posted on the noticeboard (see South Cathedral).
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Spicy Yunnanese food in stylish surroundings beside the lakes (see South Silk Road).
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A fashionable, superior chain owned by a Beijing-based artist serving authentic Yunnanese food. Diners can sample all manner of flowers, insects, and mysterious animal parts, as well as more conventional dishes (see South Silk Road).
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A short distance south of the Second Ring Road an imposing chunk of the old Beijing city wall survives, including an imposing 15th-century watch-tower. Visitors can climb onto the battlements and walk along a short stretch of wall. The tower is also home to the commercial Red Gate Gallery.
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Football’s big in Beijing. The local boys are Beijing Hyundai Guo’an, who play at the Workers’ Stadium. Getting tickets is rarely a problem: you can just show up at the stadium on game day. Second in popularity is basketball. Top team are Aoshen who play at the Beijing Guang’an Gymnasium (Baiguang Lu; map C6).
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(Fei Mu; 1948) A man returns home to find his childhood sweetheart married. Voted best Chinese film of all time.
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Also known as the East Cathedral, this is an attractive triple-domed church in the Baroque style. It was first built on the site of the residence of a Jesuit missionary in 1655 and, following earthquakes, fire, and the destruction wrought during the Boxer Rebellion, has had to be rebuilt on a number of occasions since. It is fronted by a gateway and piazza, and is beautifully lit at night.
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One of the city’s less well-known churches, St. Michael’s is hidden away in the old Legation Quarter. It was built in 1901, with three spires in Gothic style, to serve the area’s various embassies. Narrowly escaping destruction during the Cultural Revolution, it was renovated by the Chinese Patriotic Catholic Church, to whom it now belongs.
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Small but beautifully decorated rooms with free access to an on-call butler. There are excellent restaurants, as well as an exclusive health club and outdoor putting green.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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Restaurant price categories
For the equivalent of a meal for two made up of a range of dishes, served with tea, and including service.
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