DK Travel : Beijing

At the heart of Beijing is tradition, given physical form in the mighty Forbidden City, from where successive imperial dynasties have ruled since the 15th century. Neighboring Tian’an Men Square is the China of recent history, of red-flag socialism and Mao. But this is also a city on the move, as an all-pervading spirit of change makes Beijing the most 21st-century of capitals.

War and peace

Morning

Even if you’re no big fan of mechanized heavy armor, the Chinese Military History Museum is a fascinating place to spend a morning. Exhibits begin with the technology that made China one of the world’s first military superpowers, including the “Flying Dragon,” an early form of missile launcher. There’s one room devoted to the wonderfully tacky gifts that have been bestowed on China’s army chiefs and leaders, such as a pistol presented to Chairman Mao by Fidel Castro. Mao’s limousine is displayed on the ground floor and there’s one hall devoted to statues and assorted representations of the Communist Party’s great and good. It all makes for a fascinating insight into the mentality of late 20th-century China.

Afternoon

Leaving the museum, turn right and walk west along Fuxing Lu and take the first right; this will bring you to the Millennium Monument. One of the oddest bits of architecture in Beijing, the Monument nevertheless plays an active role in the city’s cultural life; its various halls are used for all kinds of temporary exhibitions. There is almost always something worth seeing. Afterwards, for some refreshment, walk east to the very pleasant Hong Hao Ge Teahouse . North of the teahouse stretches the vast and very green Yuyuan Tan Park, with a large lake at its center. It makes for a relaxing place to stroll.
Water calligraphy

Using a mop-like brush and a bowl of plain water, characters are painted on the sidewalk. Once dry, the characters disappear. It is supposed to exercise the mind and body. Tossing coins into the bowl will not be appreciated.
Western Qing Tombs

If few tourists ever visit the Eastern Qing Tombs, fewer still make it out here to their equally distant western counterparts. Again, this is another vast burial complex comprising over 70 tombs in all, set in spectacular surroundings. Tombs include those of the emperors Daoguang, Guangxu, Jiaqing, and Yongzheng (r. 1723–35). It was the latter who founded this particular necropolis, perhaps because he could not bear to be buried beside his father, whose will he had thwarted when he seized the throne from his brother, the nominated heir. Also here, in a nearby commercial cemetery, are the remains of Pu Yi, the last emperor of China (see The Last Emperor).
What? Bar

Terrific little, indie-oriented music bar close by the west gate of the Forbidden City.
White Clouds Temple

The first temple on this site was founded in AD 739 and burnt down in 1166. Since that time, it has been repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt. It even survived being used as a factory during the Cultural Revolution. The shrines, pavilions, and courtyards that make up the compound today date mainly from the Ming and Qing dynasties. Monks here are followers of Daoism and sport distinctive top-knots. Each Chinese New Year this is the venue for one of the city’s most popular temple fairs, with performers, artisans, and traders.
White Clouds Temple

Home to the China Daoist Association, the temple was founded in AD 739 and is Beijing’s largest Daoist shrine. Daoism, also known as Taoism, is a Chinese folk religion, which centers around maintaining a positive relationship with several categories of gods, ghosts, and ancestral spirits (see White Clouds Temple).
Workers’ Stadium

With an estimated capacity of 72,000, the stadium is home to Beijing’s premier football club, Hyundai Guo’an, and it is the city’s main venue for large-scale rock and pop concerts. Perplexingly, it’s also a hub of Beijing nightlife, with numerous clubs and bars clustered around its north and west gates, and some very good restaurants too (see Restaurants). Even oldies get in on the act, with mass open-air dancing taking place on the forecourt of the north gate most summer evenings.

Entrance gate at the Workers’ Stadium
World of Suzie Wong

The name is from a novel about a prostitute, but this Suzie Wong is wholly respectable. It set the mark for the “opium den-style” popular in Beijing bar-land and it’s stayed ahead of the pack thanks to its guaranteed good-time for all.
Xi Hua Yuan Teahouse

Decorated with ornate Qing-style furniture. Just over the road from the Purple Vine.
Xiang Shan Park

The wooded parkland area, also known as Fragrant Hills Park, is 2 miles (3 km) west of the Summer Palace. It boasts fine views from Incense Burner Peak, which is accessible by a chair lift (¥30). Close to the park’s main gate is the Azure Clouds Temple (Biyun Si), guarded by the menacing deities Heng and Ha in the Mountain Gate Hall. A series of farther halls leads to the Sun Yat Sen Memorial Hall, where the revolutionary leader’s coffin was stored in 1925, before being taken to his final resting place in Nanjing.