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Running west off the northern end of Qian Men Dajie is Dazhalan Jie, an old hutong area that is great for exploring on foot or by rickshaw. It is full of quaint Qing-era specialty shops selling pickles, silks, tea, and traditional Chinese medicine. To the west of Dazhalan is Liulichang Jie, with more restored buildings and many fascinating antique shops.
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The park was named after the Temple of Earth (Di Tan), which was a venue for imperial sacrifices. The altar’s square shape represents the earth. These days, the only thing that gets killed here is time: the park is always full of pensioners strolling, chatting, and exercising. A lively temple fair is held here at Chinese New Year.
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This colorful and active temple, dating to the early 14th century, was restored in 1999 and is tended by Daoist monks. The main courtyard leads into the Hall of Tai Shan with statues of gods and their attendants. Tai Shan is another name for Dong Yue, in Daoist lore the Eastern peak to which the spirits of the dead travel.
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Drum towers (gu lou) were once found in all major Chinese towns. They housed large drums that were beaten to mark the hour, keeping the city’s civil servants on time for work. There has been such a tower on this site since 1272, although the current structure dates to 1420. Visitors can clamber up the torturously steep steps to inspect some 25 drums and be entertained by a troop of drummers that delivers skin-thumping performances on the hour.
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The remoteness of the Eastern Qing Tombs, over the border in Hebei province, makes them far less popular than their Ming counterparts, despite the fact that the setting is even more splendid. In fact, the Eastern Qing Tombs make up the largest and most complete imperial cemetery in China, built on a scale as grand as the Forbidden City. Of the many tombs here, only five are the burial places of Qing emperors, but there are also 14 empresses, and 136 imperial consorts. Notable are the tomb of the Qianlong Emperor, with an incredible tomb chamber adorned with Buddhist carvings, and the lavish tomb of the devious Empress Cixi.
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The Fayuan Temple dates back to AD 696 and is probably the oldest temple in Beijing. All this time later, it remains a hive of activity. The layout is typical of Buddhist temples. Near the gate, the incense burner is flanked by the Drum and Bell Towers to the east and west. Beyond, the Hall of the Heavenly Kings is guarded by a pair of bronze lions. At the temple’s rear, the Scripture Hall stores sutras, while another hall contains a 16-ft (5-m) statue of Buddha.
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This temple doubles as the city’s Buddhist Academy. Founded in 1956, the Academy trains monks to serve in monasteries throughout China. The temple has an excellent collection of effigies, including a giant reclining Buddha (see Fayuan Temple).
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The Forbidden City is Beijing’s top “must-see” sight. A seemingly endless collection of pavilions, gates, courts, and gardens, the complex encompasses five centuries of colorful, occasionally lurid, imperial history. Trying to see everything in one go will bring on a severe case of Ming fatigue and it is recommended that you tackle the palace over at least two visits (see Forbidden City).
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This was the home of Beijing Opera’s greatest ever performer (1894–1961). The rear rooms have been left with their traditional furniture as it was when he died. Others contain a hagiographic account of his life, as well as diagrams of the stylized movements required by the form and a video of Mei, already 61, but still playing the young girl roles for which he was famous (see Mei Lanfang).
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Fundazzle is a massive indoor kid’s playground. Loud and bright, it has a two-story jungle gym, a vast plastic ball-filled pool, trampolines, swings, and a host of other activities and enticements with which to reward young children who’ve just had to endure hours of being dragged round the Forbidden City.
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