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One of the city’s less well-known churches, St. Michael’s is hidden away in the old Legation Quarter. It was built in 1901, with three spires in Gothic style, to serve the area’s various embassies. Narrowly escaping destruction during the Cultural Revolution, it was renovated by the Chinese Patriotic Catholic Church, to whom it now belongs.
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Near the parking lot for the Tanzhe Temple is this even more fascinating temple, notable for its marvelous collection of brick stupas hidden among the foliage. Each stupa was constructed in memory of a renowned monk. The towering edifices were built in a variety of designs, and the earliest among them dates from the Jin dynasty (1115–1234).
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It’s a long 45-minute taxi ride from central Beijing to the Summer Palace, but it is a sight that should not be missed. The grounds are arranged as a microcosm of nature, with hills and water complemented by bridges, temples and walkways. It manages to be both fanciful and harmonious at the same time (see Bei Hai Park).
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This enormous temple dates back to the 3rd century AD, when it was known as Jiafu Si. It was later renamed for the adjacent mountain, Tanzhe Shan. It has a splendid mountainside setting, and its halls rise up the steep incline. The temple is especially famous for its ancient trees.
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The name refers to a vast complex that encompasses a large, marble sacrificial altar, the iconic three-story Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, the smaller Imperial Vault of Heaven, and many ancillary buildings, all set in a landscaped park. This is one of Beijing’s most absorbing sights. Allow at least a half day to take in everything (see Temple of Heaven).
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Home to Beijing’s most striking pagoda, the temple (Tianning Si) was built during the 5th century AD, making it one of the city’s oldest. The 196-ft (60-m) octagonal pagoda was added in the early 12th century. The bottom of the pagoda is in the form of a huge pedestal decorated with carved arch patterns, symbolizing Sumeru, the mountain of the gods. Above are thirteen levels of eaves, very close together, with no doors or windows – the pagoda is with-out stairs inside or outside and is, in fact, solid.
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Just north of the zoo, this temple displays obvious Indian influences. It was built in the early 15th century in honor of an Indian monk who came to China and presented the emperor with five golden Buddhas. The pagodas sport elaborate carvings of curvaceous females, as well as the customary Buddhas. Also here is the Beijing Art Museum of Stone Carvings, with 2,000 decorative stelae.
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Although now thoroughly synonymous with Beijing, until relatively recently there was no Tian’an Men Square. For centuries this was just a main thoroughfare leading to the Gate of Heavenly Peace (Tian’an Men) and the approach to the Forbidden City. The area was cleared in the first half of the 20th century, then quadrupled in size in 1959, supposedly allowing for up to one million people to gather. Many of the buildings flanking the square were erected at this time (see Tian’an Men Square).
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At the height of the Sino-Soviet rift in the 1960s, Mao Zedong gave orders to carve out a vast network of bombproof tunnels beneath Beijing. Part of this subterranean hideaway, which was all built by hand, is open to the public. Guides show visitors around a circuit of dank tunnels, where signs illustrate the earlier functions of rooms, variously designated as hospitals armories, and stores for food and water. Unlit passageways branch off from the main corridors, but many are blocked, and it is dangerous to wander off alone.
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On display here are dreams of the architecture and urban landscape of Beijing to be. These are dramatically represented through the medium of two films, plus a vast model that covers most of the third floor, and which is viewable from a gallery above.
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