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Morning
Take the subway to Yonghe Gong for an early morning – and hopefully crowd-beating – visit to the Lama Temple. On leaving, cross over the main road and pass under the pailou (gate) at the entrance to Guozijian Jie for the Confucius Temple. Afterwards, take a break at the lovely Confucius Teahouse over the road. At the western end of Guozijian Jie turn left onto Anding Men Nei Dajie, a wide, shop-filled avenue and follow it south across Jiaodaokuo Dong Dajie and take the first right into Ju’er Hutong, one of the most vibrant of the city’s old alleys. Take the first left onto Nan Luogu Xiang, where at No. 108 you will find the charming Pass By Bar , which has a small courtyard that makes for an excellent lunchspot.
Afternoon
On leaving the Pass By, head west along Mao’er Hutong until you reach main Di’an Men Wai Dajie, where you turn right and head up the street for the splendid Drum and Bell Towers. Climb the towers to pick out the route you’ve just taken. Retrace your steps back down Di’an Men Wai Dajie taking the very first right, a tiny opening (usually marked by waiting taxis) leading into bustling Yandai Xie Jie. At the end of this crooked alley is the Silver Ingot Bridge; cross and bear left for Lotus Lane. You can stop here for coffee or head round the southern tip of the lake to Han Cang for a terrific meal of Hakka cuisine.
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