DK Travel : Beijing : South of Tian’an Men Square

THE QIAN MEN (FRONT GATE) at the southern end of Tian’an Men Square was once part of the inner city walls. These divided the imperial quarters of the Manchu emperors from the “Chinese city,” where the massed populace lived apart from their overlords. Walking south from the gate you are immediately plunged into a network of narrow and lively hutongs (alleys), the remnants of the old quarter. Continuing south down Qian Men Dajie eventually brings you to the western perimeter of the grounds of the Temple of Heaven, one of Beijing’s most evocative sights.

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A Day South of Tian’an Men Square

Morning

Start on Tian’an Men Square, at the southeast corner beside the stripey brick Old Qian Men Railway Station, built by the British in 1901, partly to bring military forces straight to the assistance of foreigners in the event of a repeat of the siege of the Boxers. It’s now a shopping mall and Beijing Opera theater. Venture east along Dong Jiao Min Xiang into the Foreign Legation to visit the Police Museum (see Beijing Police Museum). On leaving head south to main Qian Men Dong Dajie and walk back west for a glimpse of the Beijing of the future at the Urban Planning Museum. From the museum, it is a short walk south into the hutongs for a fowl lunch at the legendary Liqun Roast Duck Restaurant .

Afternoon

After eating, if you walk south you’ll hit main Xianyukou Jie, which, followed west, becomes Dazhalan Jie. This is a great place for specialty shops. Located down the first alley on the left is century-old Liubiju, selling a vast array of pickles. Ruifuxiang, on the north side of Dazhalan, dates from 1893 and is renowned for silks. Tongrentang Pharmacy has been in business since 1669, while Zhangyiyuan Chazhuang has been trading teas since the early 20th century. At the end of Dazhalan, head north up Nan Xinhua Jie to the Ji Gu Ge Teahouse, to sample more teas in an atmospheric setting.
Ancient Architecture Museum

Housed in the Hall of Jupiter, part of the Xiannong Tan temple complex, this museum offers an excellent introduction to the ancient construction techniques of Beijing buildings, all helpfully illuminated with detailed models. A fascinating three-dimensional plan shows the city as it was in 1949, with the city walls and gates largely intact.
Beijing Curio City

Just south of Panjiayuan, Curio City has four levels packed with antiques, porcelain, carpets, Buddhist statues, jewelry, and furniture.
Beijing Silk Store

Venerable store said to date back to 1840. Prices for quality tailoring, ready-made clothes, and fine cloths are reasonable.
Cow Street Mosque

Beijing’s oldest and largest mosque dates back to the 10th century. It’s an attractive building with Islamic motifs and Arabic verses decorating its halls and assorted stelae. Astronomical observations were made from the tower-like Wangyue Lou. The courtyard is lush with greenery, making it an idyllic escape from the city’s busy streets. Visitors should dress conservatively, and non-Muslims are not allowed to enter the prayer hall.
Crab Apple House

A handful of charming, private rooms set around a courtyard garden. Serves light and fragrant Huaiyang cuisine.
Dazhalan & Liulichang

Running west off the northern end of Qian Men Dajie is Dazhalan Jie, an old hutong area that is great for exploring on foot or by rickshaw. It is full of quaint Qing-era specialty shops selling pickles, silks, tea, and traditional Chinese medicine. To the west of Dazhalan is Liulichang Jie, with more restored buildings and many fascinating antique shops.

Liulichang Jie
Duyichu

Centuries-old corner snack shop serving baozi (steamed buns).
Fayuan Temple

The Fayuan Temple dates back to AD 696 and is probably the oldest temple in Beijing. All this time later, it remains a hive of activity. The layout is typical of Buddhist temples. Near the gate, the incense burner is flanked by the Drum and Bell Towers to the east and west. Beyond, the Hall of the Heavenly Kings is guarded by a pair of bronze lions. At the temple’s rear, the Scripture Hall stores sutras, while another hall contains a 16-ft (5-m) statue of Buddha.
Fengzeyuan

Specializes in Shandong cuisine, which is heavy on soups and seafood.

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Restaurant price categories

For the equivalent of a meal for two made up of a range of dishes, served with tea, and including service.
- under ¥100
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