DK Travel : Beijing : Tian’an Men Square and the Forbidden City

The geographical, spiritual, and historical heart of Beijing, Tian’an Men Square and the Forbidden City together represent a yin and yang arrangement; one is a mind-bogglingly vast, empty, rectangular public space, the other is an even more massive, rectangular walled private enclosure. One represents modern China, complete with its Socialist monuments, refrigerated Great Leader and resonances of recent political upheaval, while the other is a silent repository of ancient imperial glories. There is enough to see around the square and in the Forbidden City to make it worth setting aside a whole day for each. One day will present a vivid impression of China as it was, and the other an equally striking portrait of the country as it is now. And after all that, wander around the corner for a look at the new National Grand Theater and a glimpse of the China of the future.

Tiled gateway at the Forbidden City For more modern architecture See Beijing Olympics 2008

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A Day Around Tian’an Men Square and Wangfujing Dajie

Morning

Arrive early to beat the crowds at Mao’s Mausoleum and shuffle through for the permitted few minutes in the presence of the Great Helmsman. The Forbidden City can be saved for another day, but climb the Tian’an Men for the views from the gallery. From the gate walk east along the Imperial City wall soon arriving at an entrance overlooked by most visitors: this leads to the Imperial Ancestral Temple, once one of the city’s most important places of worship. Carry on east; after the junction with Nan Chizi cutting back inside the wall to walk through pleasant Changpu He Park. One (long) block beyond the park is Wangfujing Dajie and the Oriental Plaza mall, with a superb food court in the basement.

Afternoon

Wander up Wangfujing Dajie, making sure to look in the chopstick and tea shops. At No. 74 is the attractive St. Joseph’s Church, which is well worth a look. Immediately before the church is a crossroads: head away from the church along Deng Shi Kou Jie looking for signs for Fengfu Hutong on your right. Here is the Former Residence of Writer Lao She, offering a glimpse into a way of life fast disappearing in Beijing. Retrace your steps down Wangfujing to Dong’an Men Dajie where the famous Night Market should by now be set up.
Beijing Arts & Crafts Central Store

A vast, multi-story emporium of all kinds of Chinese handicrafts, from cloisonné vases and jade, to wood-carvings, lacquer ware, and silks.
China National Museum

Two museums in one, this imposing building houses both the Museum of Chinese History and the Museum of the Revolution. Of the two, the former is by far the more interesting, with an unsurpassed collection of great works of Chinese art; the halls here are also used for temporary exhibitions. The rather dull Museum of the Revolution contains models, documents, and photographs connected with the history of the Chinese Communist Party – for political enthusiasts only.
CourtYard

Beijing’s most famous restaurant – lauded as much for its location as much as the food (see CourtYard).
Forbidden City

The Forbidden City is Beijing’s top “must-see” sight. A seemingly endless collection of pavilions, gates, courts, and gardens, the complex encompasses five centuries of colorful, occasionally lurid, imperial history. Trying to see everything in one go will bring on a severe case of Ming fatigue and it is recommended that you tackle the palace over at least two visits (see Forbidden City).
Foreign Languages Bookstore

The whole of the top floor is devoted to English-language fiction and non-fiction. Staff are reliably surly.
Great Hall of the People

This the Chinese parliament building, home of the nation’s legislative body, the National People’s Congress. Regular tours visit the banquet room where US President Nixon dined in 1972 and the 10,000-seat auditorium with its ceiling inset with a massive red star. The building is closed to the public when the Congress is in session.
Hao Yuan Market

Small street market just off Wangfujing, which is crammed with stalls selling all manner of knick-knacks, curios, and handicrafts.
Hong Cao Wan’r

Upmarket ladies’ clothing boutique specializing in designer oriental items in natural fabrics.
Huang Ting

Beautiful recreation of an Old Beijing-style restaurant in the basement of a five-star hotel (see Huang Ting).

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Restaurant price categories

For the equivalent of a meal for two made up of a range of dishes, served with tea, and including service.
- under ¥100
- ¥100–¥250
- ¥250–¥500
- over ¥500