The area around Alexanderplatz is one of the oldest parts of the city; it was here that the twin towns of Cölln and Berlin merged to become one town in the 13th century. Berlin’s oldest coherent quarter, the 18th-century Nikolaiviertel and its medieval Nikolaikirche, the city’s oldest church, lie in the shadow of the TV tower, the pride of the “capital” of former East Germany. On the occasion of Berlin’s 750th anniversary, in 1987, the East German government had the Nikolaiviertel restored. Very few of the original buildings are preserved, however; most houses were rebuilt from scratch. Only a few paces away from the alleyways of Nikolaiviertel extends Alexanderplatz, referred to by locals simply as “Alex”. Before World War II, Alex defined the heartbeat of the city; after the ravages of war, it seemed vast and a little forlorn. Although the giant square is now livelier again, especially in summer, a chilly easterly wind still blows between the houses. The vibrancy of the square, as described by Alfred Döblin in his novel Berlin Alexanderplatz, is only slowly returning to the area. Much building and reconstruction work is planned for Alex in the coming years.
A Day around Alexanderplatz
Morning
Start your day by going to Alexanderplatz where you can watch the crowds in the square and perhaps do a spot of shopping before strolling to Marienkirche . Not far from here you can chill out at Neptune Fountain and then admire the statues of Marx and Engels in the Marx-Engels-Forum . From there it is only a few steps to the Berliner Rathaus . The basement restaurant, or Ratskeller, is an excellent place for an early lunch, or you could stroll to the nearby historic Nikolaiviertel, and enjoy a meal, for example at Reinhard’s , which serves rustic fare.
Afternoon
Experience the historic ambience of the Nikolaiviertel by exploring on foot, if possible, its narrow alleyways. Nikolaikirche and the Knoblauchhaus are especially worth a visit. From here walk back to Alexanderplatz and - if the weather is nice - take the lift up to the viewing café in the Berliner Fernsehturm . After refreshments you can continue on foot or take the U-Bahn from Alex to Strausberger Platz to admire the products of Socialist architecture in Frankfurter Allee . On Grunerstraße you will reach the opposite bank of the Spree River, where you can immerse yourself In Berlin’s municipal history at the Märkisches Museum just around the corner. In the evening, go for a posh meal at Ermelerhaus .
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The Alex Café, below the TV tower, has a huge breakfast buffet – start your tour of East Berlin here.
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Set in a vaulted cellar and sunny greenhouse annex, this rustic, child-friendly restaurant offers local and international fare.
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The vast, largely desolate square in the centre of East Berlin, called “Alex” by Berliners, was one of the most vibrant places in Berlin before World War II – and no doubt it will be again some day. Alfred Döblin beautifully captured the rhythm of the city in his world-famous novel Berlin Alexanderplatz . Not much remains today of the once frenzied atmosphere, although there is plenty of hustle and bustle around the Kaufhof Galleria department store (see Shops & Markets) .
Originally, Alex was a cattle and wool market. Not many of the prewar buildings survived – only Berolinahaus and Alexanderhaus, next to the historic S-Bahn station Alexanderplatz, remain, both dating back to 1929. The square was almost completely laid to waste in World War II, and most of the surrounding soulless tower blocks were built in the 1960s. There are now plans to build skyscrapers on Alexanderplatz.
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The snack bars based in this small shopping arcade offer delicious foods that you can buy or sample on the spot.
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The 365-m (1,197-ft) high TV tower is the tallest building in Berlin, affording views of up to 40 km (25 miles) in good weather. There is a viewing platform at 203 m (666 ft). The Tele-Café above rotates once around its own axis every 30 minutes. The tower, visible from afar, was erected in 1965–9 by the East German government to signify the triumph of East Berlin, their “capital”.
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Berlin’s proud town hall is the office of the Governing Mayor and is the political centre of power in Greater Berlin. The Rathaus was built in 1861–9, according to plans by Hermann Friedrich Waesemann on the site of an older town hall. It was designed to demonstrate the power and the glory of Berlin, and the architect took his inspiration for the new governmental building from Italian Renaissance palazzi .
The building is also known as the “Red Town Hall” – not a reminder of its Socialist past, but a reference to the red bricks from Brandenburg province from which it is built (see Historic Buildings) .
Heraldic animal at the Rathaus
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This is the shop to visit if you are looking for decorative wood carvings, ranging from wooden toys to elaborate Christmas decorations.
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This beer garden attracts not only Bavarians “in exile” but also many tourist groups. On offer are rustic fare and beer from both Berlin and Munich.
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Coffee and cakes plus views of the Spree River attract locals and tourists.
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A charming specialist tea shop opposite Nikolaikirche, always steeped in delicious scents.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and charges included.
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