traveldk.com

The main square of Antwerp is one of the great gilded arenas of Belgium. The city authorities made a virtue of its unusual “dog-leg” shape and slope by commissioning sculptor Jef Lambeaux (1852–1908) to create an eye-catching fountain, placed off-centre, with its water spilling out directly onto the cobbles. It depicts Brabo, a legendary Roman soldier who freed the port of Antwerp by defeating the giant Antigoon and throwing his severed hand (hand-werpen ) into the river. The Italian-influenced Stadhuis (town hall) dominates the square. Built in the 1560s, its grand horizontals are offset by the upward curve of the roof-corners, like a smile.

This huge Gothic cathedral contains several splendid works by Rubens (see Antwerp Cathedral).

A rare opportunity not only to visit the house and studio of one of the great stars of European art, but also to see what a 17th-century patrician home looked like (see Rubenshuis, Antwerp).

Antwerp’s fine arts museum is in a similar league to Brussels’ equivalent, housing a full range of paintings from early Flemish “Primitives”, such as Jan van Eyck, Rogier van der Weyden and Hans Memling, to the Symbolists James Ensor and Rik Wouters. Not surprisingly, special emphasis is placed on Rubens, Jordaens and Van Dyck. The collection is housed in a grand Neo-Classical pile a tram ride or 20-minute walk from the city centre.

The National Maritime Museum paints a rich portrait of the city’s links to the sea, through models, maps, artifacts and a large collection of boats.

Christopher Plantin (c.1520–89) was a French bookbinder who in 1546 came to Antwerp to set up his own printing workshop. It became one of the most influential publishing houses in Europe during the late Renaissance, producing Bibles, maps, scientific books and much else. The museum consists essentially of the printing workshop and home of Plantin and his heirs. It contains a large collection of rare and precious books, and displays of their illustrations. The processes of hot-metal type setting and letterpress printing are also explained. Plantin gave his name to a typeface still widely used today.

With its turrets and towers and Gothic detail, the “Meat House” is one of the most beautiful and curious buildings of Antwerp. Built in 1501–4 as the guildhouse of the butchers and a meat market, it has recently reopened as a museum of music. From street singers to concert hall, the Vleeshuis charts the history of the city through its many forms of musical expression, using historical instruments, including harpsichords made by the famous Ruckers family, manuscripts and a bell foundry.

Of all the churches in Antwerp, the church of St James is noted for having the richest interior – and for being the burial place of Rubens. It was built in late Gothic style in the 15th and 16th centuries by architects who also worked on the cathedral. The church contains work by leading sculptors of the 17th century, such as Lucas Faydherbe, Artus Quellinus and Hendrik Verbruggen, as well as paintings by Rubens, Jordaens and Van Dyck.

Come here for a glimpse of the grace and elegance of 17th-century patrician style. A series of rooms contains a fine collection of furniture, paintings and artifacts. The house is named after its owner, city mayor Nicholas Rockox (1560–1640), a philanthropist and a friend and patron of Rubens. There are paintings and drawings by Rubens, Jordaens and Van Dyck, as well as work by Frans Snyders (1579–1657), who lived next door.

Fritz Mayer van den Bergh (1858–91) was an avid collector of art and curios. When he died, his mother created a museum to display his collections – some 5,000 items in all. They include tapestries, furniture, ivories, glass, paintings and coins.