In the middle ages, bruges was one of Europe’s most prosperous cities. Its wealth derived from trade which brought silks, furs, Asian carpets, wine, fruits, even exotic pets to its busy network of canals. Then in about 1500 Bruges fell from grace and slumbered for four centuries. It remained a pocketsized medieval city, its poverty alleviated by almshouses, pious institutions, and a cottage industry supplying Europe’s thirst for lace. In the late 19th century, antiquarians recognized Bruges as a historic gem, and began a campaign of preservation and restoration. The city has been a tourist destination since that time, and has recently undergone a second renaissance, with a new generation bringing reinvigorated flair to hotels, restaurants and bars. Bruges has internationally famous collections of art, but is also a wonderfully walkable city, with surprising views on every corner.
For Bruges tourist information visit www.brugge.be-
Morning
A day of wandering. Begin in the Burg and head south across Blinde Ezelstraat. Linger beside the canals on Steenhouwersdijk and Groenerei ; walk through Huidenvettersplein to the Dijver for the prettiest views of the city. Now make your way past Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk to Mariastraat and Katelijnestraat, where you could stop for a divine hot chocolate at De Proeverie. Take Wijngaardstraat to the Begijnhof, loop around the Minnewater, and head back along Katelijnestraat. Note the almshouses that pop up in several places on this street (for instance at Nos 87–101 and 79–83). For lunch, try the Vismarkt area – Café ’t Volkshuis, for example.
Afternoon
Now you are going to pass through the city’s medieval trading centre. From the Markt walk up Vlamingstraat. At Beursplein, there was a cluster of national “lodges” – headquarters of foreign traders – such as the Genoese Lodge (No 33). The world’s first stock exchange, Huis ter Beurze , was at No 35. Take Academiestraat to Spiegelrei . Then walk up Langerei to follow the canal that eventually leads to Damme , where goods were transferred from ships to canal barges. Head back down Sint-Jakobstraat, taking a detour to ’t Brugs Beertje , with its famed collection of beers.
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Frank Brangwyn (1867–1956) was a gifted painter, born in Bruges, the son of William Curtis Brangwyn, one of a group of British artists and architects involved in restoring the city to its Gothic glory. Frank Brangwyn donated an impressive collection of his work to the city. It is now exhibited on the upper floor of the late-18th-century Arentshuis. The ground floor is used for temporary exhibitions.
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This beautiful enclave, home to a community of béguines (see Bruges) from 1245 until 1928, expresses something essential about the soul of Bruges. Around the tree-shaded park are the 17th-and 18th-century whitewashed homes of the béguines . You can visit the grounds, the béguinage church and one of the houses (Begijnhuisje ).
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For a breathtaking view over Bruges’ medieval streets, climb the 366 steps to the top of the Belfort (belfry). The set of bells at the top include the 47 carillon bells that are rung by a mechanism installed in 1748. But they can also be played manually from a keyboard on the floor below by the town’s beiaardier (carillon player) – Bruges’ highest paid official, as the joke goes.
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Elegant but unflashy, this very popular bistro passes the locals’ rigorous standards with its good-value food.
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This intimate and fetching square – a glittering confection of historic architecture, sculpture and gilding – was the focal point of old Bruges (see The Burg, Bruges).
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Said to be the oldest Bruges tavern, founded 1515. Van Dyck apparently met local painters here. Serves light lunches. There’s a boules court in the garden.
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A traditional café-pub, excellent value and especially good for lunch. It is also a popular venue for sing-along evenings.
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Bruges has limited night life, but this jazz café has a welcoming crowd and good basic cooking.
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There are chocolate shops at every turn in Bruges. The big names are on Steenstraat and Zuidzandstraat, but try the Chocoladehuisje for its imaginative (sometimes lewd) designs.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with with half a bottle of wine for (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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