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The Graslei and Korenlei are departure points for canal trips. The two quays are lined with the step-gabled guildhouses of merchants and tradesmen that date back to the 12th century. Sint Michielsbrug, the bridge at the southern end, offers the best views of the city.
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Not only is this one of the great north European collections, with star roles played by the late medieval masters of Flemish painting, such as Jan van Eyck and Hans Memling; it is also refreshingly small (see Two Museums of Bruges).
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The main square of Antwerp is one of the great gilded arenas of Belgium. The city authorities made a virtue of its unusual “dog-leg” shape and slope by commissioning sculptor Jef Lambeaux (1852–1908) to create an eye-catching fountain, placed off-centre, with its water spilling out directly onto the cobbles. It depicts Brabo, a legendary Roman soldier who freed the port of Antwerp by defeating the giant Antigoon and throwing his severed hand (hand-werpen ) into the river. The Italian-influenced Stadhuis (town hall) dominates the square. Built in the 1560s, its grand horizontals are offset by the upward curve of the roof-corners, like a smile.
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If it is hard to picture quite how life was led during Bruges’ past, this museum will do much to fill in the gaps. It presents a rich collection of everyday artifacts from the homes of the merchant classes, from kitchen-ware to musical instruments, furniture, textiles and weapons. The 15th-century building was once the palace of the Lords of Gruuthuse, who became wealthy through a tax on beer flavourings (gruut ); as a mark of their status, the house has a gallery overlooking the choir of the Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk next door. The house was restored in the 19th century to exhibit the pieces that founded this collection.
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Rustic home of one of the best-loved poets in Dutch (and Flemish), the priest Guido Gezelle (1830–99).
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German-born Hans Memling (c.1433–94) was probably trained by Rogier van der Weyden, and went on to become one of the most successful artists of his day. His control of composition, colour and detail results in works that combine beauty with profound compassion (see Two Museums of Bruges).
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Leading Art Nouveau designer (1863–1957) whose work laid the foundations for the Bauhaus movement.
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Georges Remi (1907–83) was a self-taught illustrator from the Brussels suburb of Etterbeek. In 1929 he published a story called Tintin au Pays des Soviets , and Belgium’s most celebrated comic-strip character was born. Since then, 200 million Tintin books have been sold worldwide in some 50 languages. Georges Remi devised his pen name, Hergé, by simply reversing his initials and spelling out the sounds.
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Just north of the centre of Ghent is a quaint and folksy quarter called the Patershol, a warren of little medieval streets and alleys. This is the backdrop for one of the best folk museums in Belgium (it was formerly called the Museum voor Volkskunde). A huge and fascinating collection of artifacts – toys, games, shoes and crockery, as well as complete shops and craftsmen’s workshops – are laid out within almshouses set around a grassy courtyard. These almshouses were founded in 1363 as a children’s hospital – not as an act of pure philanthropy but as penance for the murder of two members of the Alijn family.
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The dazzling court of the Infanta Isabella (1566–1633) and Archduke Albert (1559–1621) marked calmer times for Spanish Habsburg rule.
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