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This is a superb, “must-see” collection, notable because it focuses almost exclusively on Flemish and Belgian art. Highlights include rare works by Pieter Brueghel the Elder, the exhilarating Rubens collection, and an unparalleled assembly of works by the Belgian Symbolists, as well as some classic paintings by the Surrealists Magritte and Delvaux (see Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts).

Fritz Mayer van den Bergh (1858–91) was an avid collector of art and curios. When he died, his mother created a museum to display his collections – some 5,000 items in all. They include tapestries, furniture, ivories, glass, paintings and coins.

Christopher Plantin (c.1520–89) was a French bookbinder who in 1546 came to Antwerp to set up his own printing workshop. It became one of the most influential publishing houses in Europe during the late Renaissance, producing Bibles, maps, scientific books and much else. The museum consists essentially of the printing workshop and home of Plantin and his heirs. It contains a large collection of rare and precious books, and displays of their illustrations. The processes of hot-metal type setting and letterpress printing are also explained. Plantin gave his name to a typeface still widely used today.

Ghent’s two leading museums of art are a short tram or bus ride south of the city centre. The Museum voor Schone Kunsten (Fine Arts Museum) covers painting and sculpture up to the early 20th century. While closed for renovation (until autumn 2006), highlights such as works by Hieronymus Bosch, Rogier van der Weyden and Hugo van der Goes will be shown at a variety of other locations; check the museum’s website for details. Opposite the MSK, in more ways than one, is the Stedelijk Museum voor Acktuele Kunst (SMAK), Ghent’s modern art gallery. Its challenging permanent collection and temporary exhibitions have placed SMAK at the forefront of modern art galleries in Europe.

Occupying almshouses in the east of the city, Bruges’ folk museum presents a fascinating collection of historic artifacts.

A bullet-marked wall commemorates a dozen men executed by the German army during World War I.

The National Maritime Museum paints a rich portrait of the city’s links to the sea, through models, maps, artifacts and a large collection of boats.

This charming little museum combines treasures, oddities and an elaborate Baroque chapel.

This huge Gothic cathedral contains several splendid works by Rubens (see Antwerp Cathedral).