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This is a superb, “must-see” collection, notable because it focuses almost exclusively on Flemish and Belgian art. Highlights include rare works by Pieter Brueghel the Elder, the exhilarating Rubens collection, and an unparalleled assembly of works by the Belgian Symbolists, as well as some classic paintings by the Surrealists Magritte and Delvaux (see Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts).

Ghent’s two leading museums of art are a short tram or bus ride south of the city centre. The Museum voor Schone Kunsten (Fine Arts Museum) covers painting and sculpture up to the early 20th century. While closed for renovation (until autumn 2006), highlights such as works by Hieronymus Bosch, Rogier van der Weyden and Hugo van der Goes will be shown at a variety of other locations; check the museum’s website for details. Opposite the MSK, in more ways than one, is the Stedelijk Museum voor Acktuele Kunst (SMAK), Ghent’s modern art gallery. Its challenging permanent collection and temporary exhibitions have placed SMAK at the forefront of modern art galleries in Europe.

An attractive town on the confluence of the Rivers Meuse and Sambre, Namur is famous above all for its mighty Citadelle (open Jun–Sep), perched dramatically on a steep-sided hill.

Maritime museum, with real boats to climb on (see Nationaal Scheepvaartmuseum).

The towering spire of the Church of Our Lady is another key landmark of Bruges’ skyline. It’s a strange architectural mishmash: the exterior is a good example of the rather austere style known as Scheldt Gothic, and was built over two centuries from 1220 onward. The interior is essentially Gothic, with Baroque flourishes to its statues and extravagant pulpit (1743). This is a rather surprising setting for one of the great treasures of northern Europe: Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child (1504–5) – a work that came here by virtue of Bruges’ close links to Renaissance Italy. The church’s museum includes the beautiful gilt-brass tombs, rich in contemporary detail, of Charles the Bold (1433–77), Duke of Burgundy, and his daughter Mary (1457–82).

Ostend (spelt Oostende locally) is famous as a resort and for its excellent seafood. It also has surprisingly good collections of art, in the Provinciaal Museum voor Moderne Kunst and the Museum voor Schone Kunsten.

In 1880 King Léopold II staged a grand international fair to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the founding of his nation. The vast exhibition halls he erected, together with their successors, now contain a cluster of major museums. By far the most spectacular is the Musées Royaux d’Art et d’Histoire, a rich collection of treasures from around the world, including archaeological finds, anthropological artifacts and decorative arts. Close by are the Musée Royal de l’Armée et d’Histoire Militaire (an extensive military museum) and Autoworld (a major collection of historic cars). The park also contains the extraordinary Atelier de Moulages (see Atelier de Moulages), and the Pavillon Horta, a Neo-Classical work designed by a young Victor Horta to house erotic sculpture by Jef Lambeaux (1852–1908).

The three major museums in this park have enough variety to appeal to all ages (see Parc du Cinquantenaire).

Another legacy of King Léopold, the Chinese Pavilion and Japanese Tower now house porcelain, samurai armour and Art Nouveau stained glass.