DK Travel : Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp and Ghent : Rubenshuis, Antwerp

Rubenshuis, Antwerp

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In 1610, Pieter Paul Rubens (1577–1640) – court painter, recently returned from Italy, and newly married – found himself in a position to buy a large house, where he lived and worked until his death. After centuries of neglect, the house was rescued by the City of Antwerp in 1937, and has since been refurbished and re-furnished to look as it might have done in Rubens’ day. Quite apart from the sheer charm of the place, it provides a rare opportunity to see the physical context in which great works of art were made.
The best collections of Rubens’ work are in the fine arts museums of Brussels and Antwerp (see Art Galleries)

Top 10 Features

1. The Building

The house is in two parts set around an inner courtyard. As you enter, the older, Flemish-style half is to the left – a series of rooms providing the domestic quarters, where Rubens lived and entertained. To the right is the working part of the house, containing Ruben’s studio and designed by the artist in grander Baroque style.
2. The Baroque Portico

The massive ornamental screen was designed by Rubens in Italianate Baroque style to link the two parts of the house. It also provides a theatrical entrance to the formal garden beyond.
3. The Parlour Room

This room is notable for its wall hangings. Embossed Spanish leather was used as a kind of wallpaper in the houses of the well-to-do.
4. The Kitchen

This charming little kitchen, with its tiled walls and open fireplace, is typical of Flanders. Note the pothooks with ratchets, designed to adjust the height of cooking vessels over the fire. The robust traditions of Flemish cuisine were forged in such kitchens.
5. The Art Gallery

A painting exhibited here, The Art Gallery of Cornelis van der Geest , shows how Rubens’ own gallery might have looked – every inch of wall space hung with pictures.
6. The Dining Room

Eating and drinking played a central role in the social habits of Rubens’ day. A highlight here is a self-portrait of the artist , one of just four in existence.
7. The Large Bedroom

Rubens died in this room, now refurbished as a living room. The Martyrdom of Sts Marcus and Marcellinus, attributed to the great Venetian artist Veronese, hangs here.
8. The Semi-circular Museum

This elegant marble-lined room inspired by the Pantheon in Rome was used by Rubens to exhibit his collection of sculpture. Among the pieces shown today is a bust of a Satyr attributed to Lucas Fayherbe.
9. The Little Bedroom

The most eye-catching item in this room is the beautiful 17th-century box bed. Beside it is a portrait of Rubens’ second wife Helena.
10. Rubens’ Studio

In this large and impressive room, Rubens worked with a team of assistants and apprentices to maintain his huge productivity. Pictures shown here include the exhilarating but unfinished Henry IV in the Battle of Ivry (c.1628–30).

Practical Information

The Rubenshuis houses an elegant café-restaurant called Rubens Inn, serving snacks as well a substantial lunch menu. For a touch of modern style, the upbeat Grand Café Horta is just around the corner at Hopland 2 (see Grand Café Horta). The museum gets very, very busy at peak times, all day, every day, especially in summer. For some chance of a quieter visit, arrive at opening time – although you may find scores of other people have had the same idea. Wapper 9–11 03 201 15 55 http://museum.antwerpen.be/rubenshuis Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. Closed Mon and public hols Admission: €5 (includes audioguide; ID needed as security). Free on Fri