Ghent has much in common with bruges . It is a city with a rich legacy of medieval buildings and art treasures inherited from its days as a semi-autonomous and prosperous trading centre. The tranquil waters of its canals mirror the step-gables of its old guildhouses and the tall spires of its centuries-old skyline. Unlike Bruges, however, historically prosperous Ghent took on a new lease of life as Belgium’s first industrial city in the early 19th century. It is also home to a large and famous university. These factors have endowed the city with a scale, bustle, and youthful verve that have shaped its character. Ghent has an elegant grandeur, symbolized by its cathedral, theatres and opera house; but it also has an intimacy, and the web of its medieval street plan – including Europe’s largest pedestrianized zone – makes this a perfect city for wandering. It is no surprise, perhaps, that Ghent is the preferred city of many regular visitors to Flanders.
For Ghent tourist information visit www.gent.be-
Morning
SMAK and, when open, the Museum voor Schone Kunsten make a good double act – a stimulating mixture of fine art and pure provocation. Get these under your belt early in the day (note that they’re closed on Mon). Trams 1 and 10 run from the central Korenmarkt to Charles de Kerchovelaan, from where you can walk through or beside the Citadelpark to the museums. These will absorb the greater part of the morning; you can break for refreshments at SMAK’s café. For lunch, head back into the city centre. The Korenmarkt is equidistant from two enticing and contrasting lunch options: the dynamic Pakhuis (see Brasserie Pakhuis), and the medieval Groot Vleeshuis (see Groot Vleeshuis).
Afternoon
Now go to Sint-Baafskathedraal to see the Mystic Lamb (see The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb). Then you can go up the Belfort (see Belfort) to get a view over the city. Now it’s back to the Korenmarkt, stopping off at the Sint-Niklaaskerk (see Sint-Niklaaskerk), then over to the Graslei and Korenlei (see Graslei and Korenlei) to drink in the views. This could be the time to take a canal trip. From the Korenlei, walk along Jan Breydelstraat and take the first right into Rekelingestraat to reach the Gravensteen (Castle of the Counts). Then cross the Zuivelbrug and take Meerseniersstraat to the Vrijdagmarkt (Friday Market) for beer at Dulle Griet (see Dulle Griet) and chips with mayonnaise at Frituur Jozef (see Frituur Jozef).
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A colourful and tightly packed restaurant, with a zing in the air and a zing in the internationally-inspired fare.
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Ghent’s belfry is a prominent landmark, rising 91 m (299 ft) to the gilded dragon on the tip of its spire. It was built in 1380–81 and served for centuries as lookout tower, clock and alarm. It houses a 52-bell carillon, which is used for regular concerts. There is a lift to the top.
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The Abdij van de Bijloke, an old rambling Cistercian convent and hospital, provides the quirky setting for a miscellaneous collection of historical artifacts. Among the cloisters and dormitories you’ll find Chinese ceramics, medieval tombs, kitchenware, freemasons’ regalia, models of warships, a Louis XIV drawing room, and historical costumes. The convent dates from medieval times, but most of the buildings are 17th-century.
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Run by celebrated restaurant designer Antoine Pinto, Pakhuis is big and very popular – so reserve!
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The smell of freshly baked bread wafts around this rustic-style eatery serving sandwiches and light vegetarian fare.
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Pared-down elegance in an old mansion, with patio. Light, wholesome, international cuisine prepared to high standards of excellence.
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Boisterous, with a Bohemian edge that attracts all ages, this pub-café-brasserie occupies a fine 17th-century gabled house.
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This museum is a must for anyone with the slightest interest in furniture, furnishings and interior decoration. Housed in a grand 18th-century mansion, plus an uncompromisingly modern extension, it provides a tour through changing European styles from the 17th century to the present. The Art Nouveau collection is particularly rewarding, with work by Horta, Gallé and Lalique.
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One of the celebrated “beer academies” of Belgium, with 250 beers on offer. Note the basket in which you must deposit a shoe as security when drinking Kwak, a beer served in a cherished glass.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with with half a bottle of wine for (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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