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For sheer architectural theatre, the historic centrepiece of Brussels is hard to beat – as it must have been three centuries ago (see The Grand Place, Brussels).

Top-name international couturiers cluster around the Place Louise, while more boutiques lie within a covered arcade that connects the Avenue de la Toison d’Or to the Avenue Louise.

This is one of the most extraordinary museums in Brussels. Antoine Wiertz (1806–65) was an artist whose self-esteem far outstripped his talent. As a young man, he was egged on by patrons, and success went to his head. This grand studio was built so he could paint works on a scale to rival Michelangelo. The grandiose canvases are interesting in themselves, but so too are the smaller works, many so macabre and moralistic they inspire wonderment and mirth.

This beautifully preserved Art Deco home has excellent furniture and stained glass, as well as contemporary paintings.

The trams of modern Brussels are the last vestiges of a transport system that has formed an integral part of the city’s character. Visitors cannot fail to be won over by this extensive collection of over 60 trams, from the horse-drawn “hippomobiles” of the 1860s to sleek expressions of 1960s modernity, all housed in an old tram depot. Tickets include a 20-minute ride in a historic tram to (and from) Tervuren (and the Africa Museum) or the Parc Cinquantenaire.

This giant model of a metal molecule was built as Belgium’s exhibit at Brussels’ 1958 Universal Exposition.

In 1880 King Léopold II staged a grand international fair to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the founding of his nation. The vast exhibition halls he erected, together with their successors, now contain a cluster of major museums. By far the most spectacular is the Musées Royaux d’Art et d’Histoire, a rich collection of treasures from around the world, including archaeological finds, anthropological artifacts and decorative arts. Close by are the Musée Royal de l’Armée et d’Histoire Militaire (an extensive military museum) and Autoworld (a major collection of historic cars). The park also contains the extraordinary Atelier de Moulages (see Atelier de Moulages), and the Pavillon Horta, a Neo-Classical work designed by a young Victor Horta to house erotic sculpture by Jef Lambeaux (1852–1908).