Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula has a special atmosphere and an immense variety of attractions, including some of the world’s best beaches and diving areas. The modern, glittering resorts of the east coast’s “Mayan Riviera” lie alongside charming old Spanish Colonial towns, sleepy Mayan villages, and the awesome remains of ancient civilizations.
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A base for many expert deep-sea captains who also offer trips to the inshore flats.
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Gleaming jewelry stores along the waterfront in San Miguel combine with an easygoing, small-town charm that has long made this island a favorite with families. It’s a great place to settle into at a leisurely pace, maybe going diving one day, then exploring a little the next: around the island are Mayan ruins, windblown cliffs, a fascinating natural wildlife park at Punta Sur, and lovely beaches and snorkeling spots on the west coast.
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The divers’ favorite, with over 20 coral reefs that are enjoyed by first-time snorkelers and experienced divers alike. Onshore there are fine beaches and gleaming jewelry stores.
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Morning
Start with breakfast, coffee, or a drink at Las Palmeras , watching the new arrivals off the Playa del Carmen ferry. Browse in the jewelry and souvenir shops along the waterfront and in the streets around the square, but don’t buy anything yet. Rent a car and head out of town down Avenida Juárez to the Mayan ruins of San Gervasio. If you hire the services of a guide at the entrance don’t let them hurry you, but take time to notice the birds and vegetation – as much of an attraction as the ruins.
Back at the main road, head left to meet the east coast at windswept Punta Santa Cecilia. Turn south down the road beside the rocks and waves for a lunch of mixed fish and seafood on the beach at Chen Río (see Chen Río, Cozumel).
Afternoon
Carry on down the coast to Parque Punta Sur. From the parking lot, walk down to Punta Celarain lighthouse and the strange little Mayan temple called the Caracol, and follow the nature trail to try and see some crocodiles and flamingos.
You can snorkel at Punta Sur, but you’re likely to see more underwater life if you carry on to Laguna Chankanaab (see The Cozumel Reefs). If all you want is a placid beach, call in at Playa San Francisco (see Playa San Francisco and Playa Sol, Cozumel). Roll back into town, and don’t miss the sunset from the waterfront Malecón. Take another look at the shops, and buy anything you may have spotted on your morning walk.
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Tasting rather like spinach, Chaya is a vegetable native to the Yucatán. And, like spinach, it is exceptionally rich in iron and vitamins. It features in traditional cooking and new dishes like this one, in which it is cooked with garlic and wrapped in light, soft European-style wheat pancakes (crêpes) and served with a cheese sauce. Chaya is also used to make drinks (see Agua de Chaya).
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More solemnly religious than most fiestas, with processions culminating on October 13, when the figure of “Christ of the Blisters” (Cristo de las Ampollas ), kept in Mérida Cathedral, is carried through the city before a ceremonial Mass.
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Kids meet crocs (over 300 of them) at this attractive small zoo of all-local wildlife. Multilingual guides give informative, entertaining tours, and it’s well-organized, with opportunities to pet and feed baby crocodiles, deer, monkeys, parrots, and less familiar animals such as tepezcuintles (a kind of big rodent).
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Naturally crocodiles are the big attraction here, but you can also meet monkeys, parrots, and deer, as well as stranger elements of the local wildlife.
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A small place, where the cabins all have bathrooms. It’s often booked up by fishing groups, so check ahead. The catch of the day can be enjoyed in its sand-floored restaurant.
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The most attractive places to get around by bike are Cancún, Isla Mujeres, Tulum, and Valladolid, where there’s a lovely cycle path to Cenote Dzitnup. Many Cancún hotels have bikes, and there are rental shops in the other three destinations.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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