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Morning

Leave Mérida early in a rental car. Beyond the suburb of Umán, where you turn onto Highway 261, traffic thins out, and you’ll have an easy drive through woods and a few placid villages.

Stop at Yaxcopoíl for a quick tour of the hacienda, a remarkable vision of early 20th-century aristocratic life in the Yucatán. Beyond Muna the road enters the Puuc Hills, before dropping down again to Uxmal . Devote at least two hours to this site, keeping an eye out for iguanas as well as the architecture.

Recoup your energies by heading back up the road a little to the Restaurante Hal-Tun , for sopa de lima on the roadside terrace.

Afternoon

Head straight for Kabah to marvel at the monsters of the Codz Poop.

Further south, the “Puuc Route” turns off the main Highway 261 onto a lovely woodland road, with only a few other tourists, combis, tricycle carts, and the birds for company. Along the way are stop-offs at the Puuc sites of Sayil,Xlapak , and Labná. At the end of the road, descend into the netherworld of Loltún, refreshing yourself afterward in its café.

Go down to Oxcutzcab, and turn left for Ticul . Dine on poc-chuc at Los Almendros and take a stroll around the plaza to soak up some Yucatán country life before you drive back to Mérida.

Day One

Stay the night in Valladolid or, better, the little town of Pisté just outside Chichén Itzá, and get to the ruins as early as possible. Once inside, tackle the climb up the Castillo for an overview of the ancient city in all its majesty. Spend at least three hours around Chichén, then regain your strength with lunch at the charming Las Mestizas in Pisté.

In the afternoon, make a choice: if you’re interested in the ancient Maya, go up to Ek-Balam, or head into Valladolid for a wander around its plaza, San Bernardino monastery, and the dramatic town cenote. Before it’s too late in the day, head north to Río Lagartos (104 km/65 miles) to book a flamingo tour for the next morning. Stay at the Hotel San Felipe in San Felipe.

Day Two

The flamingos are best seen early, so you’ll need to be off around 7am. A 2-or 4-hour tour takes you into an exuberant, rare natural world, through broad lagoons and narrow creeks. Afterward, for lunch, have a ceviche at Isla Contoy on the water-front, or head down to Tizimín for steaks at the Tres Reyes on its broad Colonial square.

From Tizimín, turn westward through miles and miles of cattle ranches to reach Izamal. Here you can look out on the town from the monastery’s arcaded courtyard. The town’s golden colors are especially lovely in the warm, early evening light.

Morning

Begin by seeing the more traditional side of Cancún with a desayuno at one of the Mercado 28 restaurants , in the town market. Then rent a car, head to the Hotel Zone, and drive the length of Boulevard Kukulcán.

See something of local history in the Museo de Antropología (see Museo de Antropología e Historia, Cancún) in the Convention Center, and catch up on Cancún’s more glitzy side at the Forum by the Sea and La Isla complexes (see La Isla, Cancún), for some mall-hanging and window-shopping.

Continue down to El Rey ruins, to get of an idea of a compact Mayan city; as you leave, walk across the Boulevard to Playa Delfines, for crashing surf and a spectacular view north back along Cancún Island and its beach.

Afternoon

From the end of Boulevard Kukulcán, turn south on Highway 307 and head for Puerto Morelos, for a lunch of deliciously refreshing seafood ceviche and a cool beer at Los Pelícanos (see Los Pelícanos, Puerto Morelos, Los Pelícanos, Puerto Morelos), watching the pelicans hang in the breeze. Rest up on the beach, and take a snorkel so that you can swim over to the Puerto’s reef.

Carry on south to Playa del Carmen. Check out the beach, and the shops along the Quinta Avenida. If you’re staying over in Playa, book a diving or snorkeling trip for the next day. As darkness falls, join the strolling crowds along the Quinta.

Morning

Start with breakfast, coffee, or a drink at Las Palmeras , watching the new arrivals off the Playa del Carmen ferry. Browse in the jewelry and souvenir shops along the waterfront and in the streets around the square, but don’t buy anything yet. Rent a car and head out of town down Avenida Juárez to the Mayan ruins of San Gervasio. If you hire the services of a guide at the entrance don’t let them hurry you, but take time to notice the birds and vegetation – as much of an attraction as the ruins.

Back at the main road, head left to meet the east coast at windswept Punta Santa Cecilia. Turn south down the road beside the rocks and waves for a lunch of mixed fish and seafood on the beach at Chen Río (see Chen Río, Cozumel).

Afternoon

Carry on down the coast to Parque Punta Sur. From the parking lot, walk down to Punta Celarain lighthouse and the strange little Mayan temple called the Caracol, and follow the nature trail to try and see some crocodiles and flamingos.

You can snorkel at Punta Sur, but you’re likely to see more underwater life if you carry on to Laguna Chankanaab (see The Cozumel Reefs). If all you want is a placid beach, call in at Playa San Francisco (see Playa San Francisco and Playa Sol, Cozumel). Roll back into town, and don’t miss the sunset from the waterfront Malecón. Take another look at the shops, and buy anything you may have spotted on your morning walk.