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A rumbustious village bar with a salsa soundtrack. The men of El Cuyo go out to fish before dawn, and when they come back many spend much of the day by the beach at La Conchita, which serves up wonderful grilled fish.

The perfect place to cool off after a tour of Chichén Itzá. Tables beneath a palm roof strewn with colorful streamers, an atmosphere that’s relaxed, tasty food, and drinks aplenty.

Near the Chispa, this simple combination café, bakery, and ice-cream stand is a backpackers’ favorite, and offers fresh juices and bargain snacks.

Friendly bar-restaurant with cool beers, great ceviches (raw fish salad, marinated in lime) and other Yucatecan snacks, and a fine view of the placid lagoon waters.

The cheapest refreshment stops in Pisté are the budget loncherías (basic restaurants), such as this one on the village plaza, with outside tables for watching village life. Drinks are mainly non-alcoholic.

One of the most attractive hotels on the north coast also has a very comfortable, airy bar-restaurant with a lovely terrace on the beach.

Several cafés and loncherías here share an outside terrace, a fine vantage point on the monastery and town life. Some serve beer, some only soft drinks to go with their snacks.

Like many Yucatán towns, Valladolid puts on entertainment for free – the town band gives a concert every Sunday night in the square, with a musical menu that runs from rumbas and boleros to classic jazz.