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The West : Itineraries

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  • Morning

    Leave Mérida early in a rental car. Beyond the suburb of Umán, where you turn onto Highway 261, traffic thins out, and you’ll have an easy drive through woods and a few placid villages.

    Stop at Yaxcopoíl for a quick tour of the hacienda, a remarkable vision of early 20th-century aristocratic life in the Yucatán. Beyond Muna the road enters the Puuc Hills, before dropping down again to Uxmal . Devote at least two hours to this site, keeping an eye out for iguanas as well as the architecture.

    Recoup your energies by heading back up the road a little to the Restaurante Hal-Tun , for sopa de lima on the roadside terrace.

    Afternoon

    Head straight for Kabah to marvel at the monsters of the Codz Poop.

    Further south, the “Puuc Route” turns off the main Highway 261 onto a lovely woodland road, with only a few other tourists, combis, tricycle carts, and the birds for company. Along the way are stop-offs at the Puuc sites of Sayil,Xlapak , and Labná. At the end of the road, descend into the netherworld of Loltún, refreshing yourself afterward in its café.

    Go down to Oxcutzcab, and turn left for Ticul . Dine on poc-chuc at Los Almendros and take a stroll around the plaza to soak up some Yucatán country life before you drive back to Mérida.

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