DK Travel : Cancún and the Yucatán : The West

Nowhere is the flavour of the Yucatán more intense than in the west, around its historic capital, Mérida. In these parts, there is an extraordinary density of Mayan relics, and although they may not match the awesome power of Chichén Itzá, sites such as Uxmal show the architecture of the Maya at its most elegant. Beyond the main sights are stretches of wilderness, hidden lagoons, and small towns dripping with bougainvillea and hibiscus.

Warrior statue,Ticul

Church,Ticul

Chelem, Ticul, and Mayapán are covered on Chelem and Yucalpetén,Ticul, Mayapán For more on the Mayan ruins

Page
1
2
3
4
5
6

Celestún

Just north of this fishing village is a silent, wild, watery expanse of mangrove lagoon that provides a breeding ground for great flocks of pink flamingos and ibises, egrets, and blue herons. Boat tours from the village are very popular (the lagoon can get rather crowded at times). But if you stay over in Celestún after the tours have gone back to Mérida, you will find a beautifully tranquil village, with a soft white beach, laid-back restaurants and hotels, and fabulous sunsets.
Cenotes

The cenotes and underwater rivers in western Yucatán are far less well explored than those around Tulum. Snorkeling and diving trips are beginning to be organized from Mérida; Yucatán Trails agency (see Tours and Special Interests) can book tours.
Chelem and Yucalpetén

Just west of Progreso, on the other side of a gap in the coastal sand bar, these easygoing villages have long, almost empty beaches. They’re popular for windsurfing.
Dzibilchaltún

The Temple of the Seven Dolls, through which the sun strikes at dawn on spring and summer equinoxes to run straight along a white sacbé (rough cast road) to the central plaza, is the most celebrated feature of this ruined Mayan city just north of Mérida. It was one of the longest-lived Mayan cities, occupied for over 2,000 years. There are additional temples at the site, as well as a grand Palacio and a Spanish missionary chapel. The huge, mysterious pool – Cenote Xlacah – which provided the ancient city with water, now offers an idyllic place in which to cool off.
Edzná

A Mayan city in many ways as spectacular as Chichén Itzá. The “Building of the Five Stories” is one of the largest Mayan palaces.
El Edén, Mérida

A snug, out-of-the-way bar in the patios of an old house, with distinctly quirky decor of tangled wood and old furniture and lots of intimate corners.
El Sombrero Popular, Mérida

A little hat shop opposite the market, with a very friendly owner who will show you piles of handmade panamas in all sorts of styles and sizes.
Flamingos, Progreso

One of Progreso’s most enjoyable big terrace bar-restaurants, with tasty ceviches to go with the beer.
Guayaberas Jack, Mérida

The guayabera shirt-jacket is the smartest thing for gentlemen to wear in tropical Mérida. This long-established shop sells only guayaberas , and can make them to measure.
Hacienda Ochil

A restaurant in a restored hacienda, offering finely prepared traditional Yucatecan dishes on a delightful terrace.

Jump to top

Restaurant price categories

For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
- under $5
- $5-$10
- $10-$20
- $20–$35
- over 35