Nowhere is the flavour of the Yucatán more intense than in the west, around its historic capital, Mérida. In these parts, there is an extraordinary density of Mayan relics, and although they may not match the awesome power of Chichén Itzá, sites such as Uxmal show the architecture of the Maya at its most elegant. Beyond the main sights are stretches of wilderness, hidden lagoons, and small towns dripping with bougainvillea and hibiscus.
Chelem, Ticul, and Mayapán are covered on Chelem and Yucalpetén,Ticul, Mayapán For more on the Mayan ruins-
Hacienda San José CholulSet in a colonial hacienda, this restaurant’s biggest draw is the secluded garden. The service is also excellent.
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Another seductive and comfortable hacienda restaurant in a garden. Xcanatún combines local and Caribbean cooking with a few French touches.
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Only hammocks, of every size and color, and all of fine quality. The staff speak some English and take great care to find out just what you want.
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An unusually modern, youth-oriented venue for old-fashioned Campeche, with colorful mock-tropical decor and light, tangy variations on Gulf Coast food, plus cocktails.
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Fresh-juice stands are a wonderful local institution, and California wins the prize as the best in town. Watermelon, pineapples, papaya, and more are all waiting to be juiced.
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This site was the second most important of the Puuc Cities after Uxmal, and an imposing arch on its west side marks the start of the sacbé road (see Cozumel and the South) that linked it to its larger ally. Its Codz Poop or “Palace of Masks” is the most extravagant example of Mayan carving: the extraordinary façade is covered with 250 faces of the long-nosed rain-god Chac. The Palacio and Temple of the Columns are other classics of refined Puuc architecture.
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Located opposite the ruins of Uxmal, this restaurant has a tropical garden, ethnic artworks, and fine local and international cuisine.
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Automatic first choice in Celestún, an ideally comfortable beach terrace beneath a palapa roof, with succulent, coriander-rich platters of fish, shrimp, and octopus.
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At the weekend, when they put tables outside, this restaurant is an ideal spot for observing all the activity in Parque Hidalgo. Settle in with a drink, and try one of the great enchiladas or another of their Mexican classics.
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Around the bandstand in the middle of Campeche’s main square are the terrace tables of this café, with sandwiches and Mexican snacks as well as the necessary drinks.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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