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The Arch of Labná (wonderfully drawn by Frederick Catherwood, ) exemplifies the sophistication of Puuc architecture. Nearby, the town’s Palacio is only slightly smaller than Sayil’s, and was divided into seven patios – the part to the left was the home of the lords of Labná, the patios to the right (east) were for servants. The setting is especially lovely, in tranquil woods full of birds.

This vast cave complex is both a stunning natural phenomenon and ancient Mayan site. It has been occupied by humans longer than anywhere else in the Yucatán, from remote prehistory right up until the 19th century. The ancient Maya lived here, mined the caves, and used them for rituals. Guided tours take you through 2 km (1.5 miles) of caves, but the network extends much further. The rock formations are awe-inspiring, and a special feature of Loltún is its strange changes of temperature, from fierce heat to chilly breezes.

This country restaurant is credited with almost reinventing traditional Yucatecan food for the outside world. Try the pavo en relleno negro , a great example of the rich flavors of local cooking.

The last big Mayan city, and one that dominated the Yucatán for 200 years after 1200. Its buildings often “mimic” Chichén Itzá and have well-preserved frescoes.

Perhaps the most seductive of all the colonial cities in Mexico. Elegant architecture, shady patios, great markets, a distinct friendliness, the soft music of boleros and the jarana heard in free concerts in 16th-century squares, and fiestas enjoyed by all ages every Sunday – the town’s appeal is plentiful and varied.

Cafés, Mérida

Innovative store that sells lightweight clothes for men and women in original, modern designs, using Mexican cottons and other traditional materials.