DK Travel : Cancún and the Yucatán : The West

Nowhere is the flavour of the Yucatán more intense than in the west, around its historic capital, Mérida. In these parts, there is an extraordinary density of Mayan relics, and although they may not match the awesome power of Chichén Itzá, sites such as Uxmal show the architecture of the Maya at its most elegant. Beyond the main sights are stretches of wilderness, hidden lagoons, and small towns dripping with bougainvillea and hibiscus.

Warrior statue,Ticul

Church,Ticul

Chelem, Ticul, and Mayapán are covered on Chelem and Yucalpetén,Ticul, Mayapán For more on the Mayan ruins

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Oxkintok

This ancient Mayan city has a Satunsat, or “Labyrinth” pyramid, containing a strange, dark maze, possibly built as an entrance to the Underworld that only the Lord of Oxkintok could use.
Pancho’s, Mérida

The liveliest, most enjoyable bar-restaurant and dance club in central Mérida has Mexican bandit decor, welcoming staff, and a tiny, buzzing open-air dance floor.
Progreso

Mérida’s port and favorite beach town is a place to get close to ordinary Yucatecan life. The harbor is stuck at the end of a long (6-km/4-mile) pier, and so the shallow waters around the beach remain blissfully tranquil. Until the weekend, that is, when Meridanos spill out onto the sand and into the warm blue waters. There are excellent fish restaurants along the seafront, too, with big, convivial outside terraces for socializing.
Restaurante Café Club, Mérida

A laid-back, eclectic café with a half-vegetarian menu including Mexican dishes, pizzas, and salads. Fun for breakfast, and a great bargain.
Sayil

Of all the Puuc Cities, Sayil is the one that gives the strong-est sense of the wealth of its ancient inhabitants. Its hub is the magnificent Palacio, an opulent complex sweeping up through three levels and over 90 chambers, with an architectural refinement that recalls the buildings of Ancient Greece. It housed over 350 people, from lords to servants, and had its own exclusive water supply.
Spasso’s, Mérida

The smarter side of Mérida – this sleek modern space in the Hyatt hotel is an Italian restaurant early evening, but becomes a dance bar later.
The Campeche Petenes

This huge mangrove and forest wilderness is home to a spectacular range of wildlife, including flamingos, pumas, and turtles. Trips can be arranged from Campeche or the village of Isla Arena.
Ticul

One of the most charming of Yucatán’s country towns, and an enjoyable base in the Puuc region, Ticul is also a historic center for ceramics.
Uxmal

With the elegant lines of the Nunnery Quadrangle and towering mass of the Pyramid of the Magician, Uxmal is not only one of the most beautiful of ancient Mayan cities but also one of the greatest sights in the Americas.
Xlapak

The smallest Puuc site is as attractive for the undisturbed woodland walk as for its ruins. The little Palacio has intricate Puuc carving (see The Puuc Cities).

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Restaurant price categories

For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
- under $5
- $5-$10
- $10-$20
- $20–$35
- over 35