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Just west of Progreso, on the other side of a gap in the coastal sand bar, these easygoing villages have long, almost empty beaches. They’re popular for windsurfing.

This ancient Mayan city has a Satunsat, or “Labyrinth” pyramid, containing a strange, dark maze, possibly built as an entrance to the Underworld that only the Lord of Oxkintok could use.

Of all the restored haciendas in the Yucatán, this one, with its crumbling, ornate main house and factory buildings, gives the best feel of life here when henequen or “green gold” (see 1860–1910: Henequen Boom) dominated the state.

The cenotes and underwater rivers in western Yucatán are far less well explored than those around Tulum. Snorkeling and diving trips are beginning to be organized from Mérida; Yucatán Trails agency (see Tours and Special Interests) can book tours.

The smallest Puuc site is as attractive for the undisturbed woodland walk as for its ruins. The little Palacio has intricate Puuc carving (see The Puuc Cities).

One of the most charming of Yucatán’s country towns, and an enjoyable base in the Puuc region, Ticul is also a historic center for ceramics.

On one side of the square of this remarkable little town is an 18th-century church, while on another is a very ancient Mayan pyramid, perhaps begun around 300 BC.

The last big Mayan city, and one that dominated the Yucatán for 200 years after 1200. Its buildings often “mimic” Chichén Itzá and have well-preserved frescoes.

This huge mangrove and forest wilderness is home to a spectacular range of wildlife, including flamingos, pumas, and turtles. Trips can be arranged from Campeche or the village of Isla Arena.

A Mayan city in many ways as spectacular as Chichén Itzá. The “Building of the Five Stories” is one of the largest Mayan palaces.