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An ornate arched gateway at Wentworth Avenue signals your entrance to this distinctly Chinese neighborhood. Asians and non-Asians alike flock to aroma-filled dim-sum restaurants that serve a mouthwatering selection of dumplings, duck, egg rolls, and other delicacies. Shops sell everything from lanterns to delicate tea sets and mysterious Chinese herbs (see Chinatown).
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Chicagoans who crave cheap, authentic Indian food head north to Devon Avenue in Rogers Park. Nineteenth-century English settlers named it after Devonshire, but since the 1960s, it’s been a thriving Indian community, mingled with Russian, Greek, Syrian, and Jewish enclaves. From colorful saris to Indian videos to savory curried meats, it’s almost like being in Delhi.
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Chicago’s elevated trains (the El) provide an inexpensive roofline tour of the city. The Brown Line in particular warrants riding en famille from Chicago Station south over the Chicago River and around the Loop, threading between the massive buildings of the financial district. Sit in the first row of the front car for an exciting view of the city ahead of you (see The El).
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The Benevolent and Protective Order of Elks, an American fraternity (founded in 1868 and still going strong), built this magnificent structure in 1926 to honor its World War I veterans. It’s since been re-dedicated to pay homage to World War II, Korean and Vietnam war veterans. Two larger-than-life elk statues flank the wide entrance steps, while inside, every inch is richly decorated. The 100-ft (30-m) marble rotunda, murals depicting the Sermon on the Mount, intricate windows, and allegorical bronze sculptures are awe-inspiring.
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In Chicago there’s a theater company for every demographic and Emerald City is its troupe devoted to young audiences. Expect lively productions such as Where the Wild Things Are as well as holiday season shows in weekend-only midday matinees at Lincoln Park’s Apollo Theater.
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One of the three lakefront institutions to occupy the 57-acre (23-ha) Museum Campus, this vast museum boasts a collection of more than 20 million fascinating natural history and anthropological artifacts.
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The first Fourth Presbyterian church, dedicated in 1871, celebrated its first sermon just hours before it was incinerated in the Great Fire. Rebuilt in 1914 when Magnificent Mile was the little-used Pine Street, today’s church offers often peaceful respite from the now highly commercial boulevard. Designed by Ralph Adams Cram, one of the architects behind New York’s Cathedral of St. John the Divine, it’s not surprising that this church boasts a cathedral-like interior, with an impressive stained-glass west window. A tranquil courtyard is often the place for classical concerts in summer.
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Nostalgic German immigrant Francis Dewes, a self-made millionaire, commissioned this elaborate home in 1896. Built in the eclectic Gründerzeit style – a German counterpart to Beaux Arts – its entrance steps, stone statues, and ornate carved curlicues certainly stand out from the neat rows of adjacent brick apartment buildings. Interior highlights include mosaic floors, a fountain, and wrought-iron chandeliers.
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Chicago boasts many upscale neighborhoods, but none more historic and prestigious than the Gold Coast. Railroad, retail, and lumber tycoons built this elegant district in the decades following the Great Fire of 1871 (see 1871: Great Chicago Fire), and its leafy streets are lined with 19th-century mansions interspersed with early 20th-century apartment buildings. There are no less than 300 designated historic landmarks in the Astor Street District alone, including buildings by Stanford White (such as 20 E. Burton Place), and Charnley House, designed by Louis Sullivan (assisted at the time by Frank Lloyd Wright). (1365 N. Astor Street).
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Northern Italians settled here in the 1920s, and some Chicagoans argue that this west side neighborhood is actually the real Little Italy. It has a handful of authentic Italian restaurants and delis, as well as the Taste of Italy festival, held over Father’s Day weekend every June.
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