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If you prefer a moderate climate, the best time to visit Chicago is spring or fall. But if you can bear the snow and bitter cold of the festive season, you’ll see the city sparkle with magical Christmas lights – and you’ll have a lot fewer tourists to contend with. Avoid November visits, as the city’s hotels are filled by conventioneers during this month.

Chicago winters are usually intemperate with heavy snow and temperatures ranging from 13° F (-9° C) to 37° F (4° C). Summer days can be anything from balmy to boiling, averaging 69° F (22° C) to 84° F (30° C). Extremes, like winter blizzards, heavy spring rains, and summer heat waves are not uncommon, with spring-time weather being particularly changeable. Despite the winds that can gust off Lake Michigan, Chicago’s “Windy City” moniker is actually attributed to the verbose bid the city made to host the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition (see The Museum’s Origins).

Pack lightly for summer, and bring layers for the unpredictable spring and fall conditions. Layers are best for the often desperately cold winters, in order to cope with centrally heated environments. A hat and suitable footwear are essential then too. While casual clothes are acceptable in most places, men should bring a jacket and tie, since they are required at many upscale restaurants.

It is strongly recomended to have a comprehensive travel insurance policy, including coverage for trip cancellation, lost luggage, car rental insurance and, most of all, medical expenses, which are very high in America.

Citizens of European Union countries, New Zealand, Australia, and Japan can spend up to 90 days in the US without a visa. They just need a valid passport and a round-trip ticket. Canadian citizens must only show photo ID and proof of residence. Citizens of other countries should contact their local US embassy well in advance of their trip to obtain the relevant visa.

Do bring some dollars with you for essentials on arrival. But from then on, major credit cards are accepted in most places. ATMs abound, but check with your own bank to avoid the extra fee charged for using ATMs of non-affiliated US banks. It’s also worthwhile bringing a few US dollar traveler’s checks in case of emergency. These can be changed at most banks and foreign exchange on showing photo ID, and can also be used in stores and restaurants.

Foreign or out-of-state driver’s licenses are valid in Chicago – if they are in English. Bring your picture license even if you don’t plan to rent a car: it’s a good alternative to a passport if you are asked for proof of age in a bar.

Electrical appliances in US operate on 110–120 volts and use two-prong plugs. This means that non-US, single-voltage appliances need an adapter and transformer, available in airport shops, and at many electrical stores and large department stores.

If you have student or senior ID, it’s a good idea to carry it with you to make the best of discounts offered on everything from public transit and hotels to admission to the main attractions.

One of the world’s busiest airports, O’Hare lies 20 miles (32 km) northwest of downtown Chicago. Serving most major airlines, this airport is big and spread out. Use the free Airport Transport System (ATS) to access between the three domestic terminals, the international terminal, parking areas, and the Metra station.

Taxis are available on a first come first served basis from the lower level of the Arrivals terminal. Out of rush hours it can take around 45 minutes to reach Downtown. Car rental agencies are also at hand, near the baggage claim areas in terminals 1–3, and via courtesy telephones from terminal 5. Alternatively, shuttle buses, limos, and trains can take you into Chicago. For the latter, follow the “Trains to City” signs to the Chicago Transit Authority (CTA) Blue Line, the cheapest and – at 40 minutes – often the quickest way into town.

Located 10 miles (16 km) southwest of Downtown, this recently renovated airport serves mostly budget airlines, as well as a few major ones. Taxis are available from exit M5; car rental agencies are located in the main terminal building; and shuttle buses leave from in front of it. Alternatively, follow signs from the terminal to the CTA station: the Orange Line brings you downtown in less than 30 minutes.

Landing cards and customs forms are distributed on the plane. Foreign nationals have to join a separate line to have these and their passports inspected after landing. Strict security checks, involving the taking of photographs and fingerprints, are now in place for those arriving in the US on a visa.

These operate from both airports. Continental Airport Express will drop off at (and pick up from) any requested downtown location: Omega Airport Shuttle buses operate between the two airports. To catch a shuttle, go to the information counter at Baggage Claims.

Several limo companies, including Amm’s and Chicago Express Limousine, offer private door-to-door services: it’s best to book 24 hours in advance. Rates are higher than taxi fares, and don’t forget to tips should be 10–15%.

You usually have to be over 25 with a valid license to rent a car. Reputable agencies such as Avis (800-331-1212) and Hertz (800-654-3131) are at both main airports and throughout the city. A deposit will be required. Collision damage waiver and liability insurance are highly recommended.

Over 40 Amtrak trains serve Union Station each day. The nearest El stop is at Clinton, but it’s a good walk, so it is often better to take a cab or bus to your destination.

Catch long-distance buses from Greyhound’s main downtown terminal. Then catch a cab to your destination, or walk one block north to take the El from Clinton station.

Short for elevated train, the El is nevertheless the name given to the entire CTA-run train network, including the sections that travel underground. The five major and two minor lines are identifiable by color: red, green, blue, brown, orange, purple, and yellow. Some lines run 24 hours a day (less often off-peak). Trains arrive every 5–20 minutes, and the service is fast and economical.

The CTA also operates an extensive network of buses, especially useful for reaching the lakefront, which is not served by the El. Look for the blue and white stops. Some also serve PACE buses that cover the city suburbs and are numbered 208 and higher.

A regular El or bus fare is $1.75, with an extra 25¢ for a transfer card (valid for two transfers within two hours of purchase), and you need exact change. However if you buy a Transit card with a preset value at a station ticket office, or get a topup Transit card and charge it with the desired amount at a machine, the relevant fare is then deducted from your pass each time you take a ride. One- to five-day Visitor Passes are also available from stations, visitor centers, and selected tourist attractions.

Metra, the commuter rail system, serves the city’s suburbs. Fares vary according to the journey’s length. Downtown stops are Union Station, LaSalle Street Station, Ogilvie Transportation Center, and Randolph Street Station.

It is usually easy to hail a cab Downtown. Elsewhere, it’s better to call for one. There’s an intial charge, then a fee per mile and per extra passenger. A 10–15% tip is expected. Companies include:

In summer, Wendella Riverbus (312-337-1446) runs water taxis between the Wrigley Building and both Union Station and the Ogilvie Transportaion Center. Shoreline Water Taxi (312-222-9328) also offers a service every 20 minutes from Navy Pier to the John G. Shedd Aquarium and near the Sears Tower.

From Memorial Day to Labor Day (see Public Holidays), free daytime trolley buses run on four routes from downtown El and Metra stations to the Museum Campus, the Art Institute of Chicago, State Street and Michigan Avenue shopping areas, Navy Pier – and on weekends they run to Lincoln Park and Chinatown/Pilsen (see Ethnic Neighborhoods).

Exploring compact areas (such as the Mag Mile and Lincoln Park) on foot is great in fine weather. However, avoid walking alone after dark.

Only confident cyclists should consider city cycling as the roads are so busy. However, the 18 miles (29 km) of lake-front bike paths are very pleasant. To get a Chicago Bike Map call 312-742-2453. Bike Chicago rents bikes and conducts bike tours from Navy Pier: call 1-800-915-2453 or visit www.bikechicago.com.

Chicago has three main tourist information centers: in the Chicago Cultural Center; in the Historic Pumping Station (see Historic Water Tower & Pumping Station), and at Navy Pier. Opening hours are at least 10am–5pm. You can also get further information by contacting the Chicago Convention and Tourism Bureau (312-201-8847), or get in touch with the Illinois Bureau of Tourism (1-800-226-6632).

Information about Chicago can be found on several reliable websites, such as www.choosechicago.com and www.877chicago.com. For in-depth reviews of where to go and what to see, log onto www.metromix.com, affiliated to the Chicago Tribune . Internet cafes include the national chain Screenz (777-348-9300)

The city’s two main daily newspapers are the Chicago Tribune , the Chicago Sun-Times . The most popular radio stations include: WNUA (95.5 FM) for jazz, WFMT (98.7 FM) for classical, WLUP (97.9 FM) for rock, and WGCI (107.5 FM) for R&B. WBBM (780 AM) is a news station, and WSCR (670 AM) keeps you up to date on sports. As for local TV, there’s a wide range to choose from: CBS (Channel 2); NBC (Channel 5); ABC (Channel 7); WB (Channel 9); WTTW Public TV (Channel 11); and Fox (Channel 32).

For a complete list of what’s on in Chicago see www.877chicago.com, or pick up the Chicago Reader – a free paper that comes out every Thursday, available in restaurants, bars, and other venues. Chicago is known for its conventions, some so large that conventioneers almost take over the city. Check the “Convention Calendar” at www.choosechicago.com, to see if your visit coincides with any.

Plan to tip for most services. Waitstaff expect 15–20 percent; bell hops and porters $1 per bag, hotel maids around $2 per night, and bartenders up to $1 per drink.

Most public phones accept coins or phone cards (calls to Directory Assistance are free). Within Chicago you need to dial the area code 312. Otherwise, dial a 1 in front of all other US codes. To dial abroad, key 011 + country code + city code (omitting any initial 0). If you need to rent a cell phone, try International Sound (1-800-353-2100). AT&T, Nextel, and Sprint are the largest mobile service providers.

Chicago Parent magazine (www.chicagoparent.com) has a monthly calendar of kids’ activities. Access Chicago , published by the Mayor’s Office, provides information on handicap accessibility to the city’s main attractions. Call 312-744-7050 to obtain a copy.

Smoking is prohibited in many public spaces in Chicago, so check for no smoking signs before lighting up. The legal age for the purchase or consumption of alcohol is 21, and the law requires photo ID as proof.

In emergencies, your consulate may give assistance.

Several city attractions such as Lincoln Park Zoo never charge admission. Others often have one free day per week: bear in mind it might be cheaper, but the crowds can be greater.

Summer in Chicago brings sunshine and lots of free outdoor happenings, especially in Grant Park (see Millennium & Grant parks). Arrive early to get a good spot, and bring a picnic and warm clothing for after the sun goes down. The Mayor’s Office of Special Events and other sources of information (see Useful Information) will have details of concerts, neighborhood festivals, parades, and more.

The Chicago Office of Tourism (see Useful Information) provides information on a range of great free tours, such as the Cultural Center Tour and the Loop Train Tour. The volunteer-run Chicago Greeters also offers an insider’s take on the city at no charge.

Many restaurants have good-value “Early Bird Specials” or “pre-theater menus.” Look for signs advertising deals.

Half-price tickets for same-day theater performances can be bought in person at Hot Tix booths around the city. There is a a slight discount for cash payment and a small fee for ticket processing. To save time fruitlessly waiting in line, check the web-site for daily listings of availability.

Many famous artists, such as Pablo Picasso and Marc Chagall, have left their artistic mark on the city. Details of public art Downtown are included in a free booklet, the Loop Sculpture Guide , which is available at the Chicago Cultural Center and the Waterworks Visitor Center. The University of Chicago also has notable works on campus, while Navy Pier has sculpture displays during summer.

Chicago’s many beautiful parks are run by the Chicago Park District. Their excellent facilities include skating areas, beaches, pools, golf courses, tennis courts, and walking and cycling paths. Contact Bike Chicago (see Bike Chicago Tours) at Navy Pier to rent bikes or in-line skates.

Free tickets for the Oprah and Jerry Springer shows are in demand, so call the hotlines at least a month in advance to avoid disappointment. Audience members generally have to be 18 years of age or over.

Throughout the year, the Chicago Office of Tourism (see Useful Information) offers several promotions, such as Winter Delights, which include discounts on lodging, attractions, and meals.

Apart from tours of neighborhoods such as Chinatown and Bronzeville, this company also runs special interest bus trips (on themes like Chicago’s theaters). Tours begin at the Chicago Cultural Center: call ahead to book.

Learn about the city’s amazing architecture on a Chicago Architecture Foundation (CAF) walking, bike, bus, or (in summer) boat tour. The fascinating trips highlight both historic and modern buildings, including Frank Lloyd Wright’s architectural legacy.

Bike Chicago will guide you through the city’s beautiful parks, neighborhoods, or along the stunning lakefront departing from either of its two locales.

Follow the trails of some of the city’s most infamous 1920s and ’30s gangster residents. Sites visited on this two-hour tour include that of the St. Valentine’s Massacre, Little Italy, and other haunts of the likes of Al Capone and John Dillinger.

Exercise your mind and your muscles by kayaking down the Chicago River while learning about the city’s history and architecture. There are gangster and ghost themed tours for both beginners and advanced paddlers.

Join a narrated tour from the Lake or Wendella boat tour to gain historical or architectural insight from a different perspective. Metro Ducks offer a wackier take with their tours onboard an amphibious WWII craft.

Run by the Chicago Office of Tourism (see Useful Information), this free service gives groups of 1 to 6 visitors a chance to benefit from the wisdom of enthusiastic local residents who know and love the city. Choose from a range of themed or neighborhood tours, and preferably book online seven days in advance.

While circling The Loop on an El train (see The El) an expert from the CAF explains the history of significant buildings and the El itself. Free tickets are available at the Chicago Cultural Center information desk on a first-come, first-served basis each day.

For a romantic ride along the waterfront, the Mag Mile, or around the Gold Coast area, flag down or book a traditional horse-drawn carriage. A flat fee is charged for a half-hour tour.

As in most cities, the most common crimes are pickpocketing and purse snatching. Common sense can help deter these problems. Leave surplus cash, unnecessary credit cards, and valuables in a safe place at your hotel. Don’t walk around with your wallet in a back pocket, and keep bags securely fastened and close to your body. Do keep a copy of your credit card numbers (and the number to call if they are lost) separate from the cards, and bring photocopies of important documents in case they are stolen.

It’s best to avoid using public transportation late at night. Take a taxi instead. However, when you do take a train, stand well back on the platform until the train has stopped, never sit in an empty carriage, and do not lean against the train doors. Train platforms and trains usually have an intercom in case of emergency.

Plan your route before setting off so that you know where you are going. If you do get lost, try not to make a big show of consulting your map or guidebook. At night, avoid walking alone in dimly lit areas and in parks. Steer clear of areas beyond the south branch of the Chicago River (west of Downtown) and parts of the South Side where crime levels are higher.

Make yourself aware of the fire escape route from your room as soon as you arrive. Always keep the door locked, and be sure you know who is knocking before you let anyone in. Valuables are best kept locked in the in-room, or preferably hotel, safe.

For police, fire, and medical emergencies call 911. If you are not in a position to speak, the emergency locator should still be able to track you. For non-emergency police matters, such as theft, dial 311 to reach the City Help-line. Both numbers can be accessed by cell phones.

Hospitals and emergency rooms are listed in the Yellow Pages of the telephone directory. Your concierge will know which one is most convenient. Weiss Memorial Hospital and Northwestern Memorial Hospital are convenient to Downtown and the north side of the city, while Bernard A. Mitchell Hospital, at the University of Chicago, serves the South Side.

In an emergency, call 911 or go directly to the nearest hospital. Even with medical insurance, you may have to pay for services yourself and claim reimbursement after. Contact your insurer before receiving any treatment.

Many dental clinics are open 24 hours. Check with the hotel concierge or contact the Chicago Dental Society for a referral.

Pharmacies are plentiful throughout the city. Many are open 24 hours. The most popular drug store chains (Walgreens, Osco, and CVS) all have pharmacies inside.

Regular store and mall hours are usually 10am to 9pm, Monday to Saturday, and 11am to 6pm Sunday. However, North-side boutiques and stores along the Mag Mile (see Magnificent Mile) often stay open ’til 7–8pm.

Chicago state and local sales taxes are among the highest in the country at 8.75 percent on all non-food items.

Some Chicago stores have items on sale all year round, but expect real bargains after Christmas, on Presidents’ Day, and on Labor Day (see Useful Information).

You’re in shopper’s heaven when it comes to department stores in Chicago, which are mostly located on North Michigan Avenue and State Street. They include upscale Marshall Field’s, practical Carson Pirie Scott & Co. (see Carson Pirie Scott Building), traditional Lord & Taylor, and stylish Bloomingdale’s Home & Furniture Store.

There’s no shortage of malls in the city, especially vertical ones on the Mag Mile. Here you’ll find Water Tower Place; Westfield North Bridge Mall; Chicago Place – featuring the Midwest’s flagship Saks Fifth Avenue – and 900 North Michigan Shops. Regular malls are scattered all around the city and its suburbs.

Accent on Chicago and the City of Chicago Store have shelves filled with Chicago mementos (see Top 10 Souvenirs). Authentic local food such as pizza and Eli’s cheesecake can be shipped anywhere in the US by Taste of Chicago.

Look for real bargains at Filene’s Basement, while higher-end men’s and women’s clothing are discounted in the Mark Shale and Gap stores. Good value jewelery can be found at the Jeweler’s Center, and cheap housewares at Crate & Barrel.

Borders and Barnes & Noble bookstores are all over the city. But for specialty books and personal service, try the Savvy Traveller or Sand-meyer’s Bookstore. The Virgin Megastore looks cool inside, but Tower Records has a far greater selection. For great value CDs try the back wall racks of the legendary Rolling Stones shop, or go to Second Hand Tunes for used records.

For information on art exhibitions, get a copy of Chicago Gallery News , which is available at visitor centers, or head to the River North Gallery District. Taylor’s Guide to Antique Shops in Illinois and Southern Wisconsin (available in bookstores or by calling 1-847-465-3314) will direct you to the best local antique dealers.

To book a room, contact the Chicago Convention and Tourism Bureau (CCVB). Discounted rates can be found by checking the Internet on sites such as www.877chicago.com, calling the hotel directly, or contacting a reputable, nofee reservation service such as Hot Rooms and Hotel Reservations Network. To hold a reservation, a credit card is usually necessary: no-shows will be charged. Be sure to specify if you want a smoking or non-smoking room.

Hotel rates vary according to the hotel category, and the time of week and season. Peak rates are weekdays and from April–December. Rack rates, the basic room rates, are the ones used in this book to provide a guide price. Don’t settle for them! It is almost always possible to get a better deal, so don’t be too shy to ask.

Usually, the larger the room, the higher the tab, and many, though not all, hotels charge more for a room with a view – so consider how much time you will want to spend in your room before you pay the premium. Twin-bedded rooms are uncommon; most double rooms have either a queen- or king-sized bed or two double beds. If staying in a busy area, check to make sure rooms are soundproof.

Bed & Breakfasts are a great way to see the city from a different perspective. For a list of homes offering guest rooms, check with At Home Inn Chicago or Illinois Bed & Breakfast Association (ILBBA). Many require a minimum stay of two nights.

Downtown restaurants add on a 9.5 percent local sales tax to your check, and hotel tax in Chicago is quite high at 14.9 percent (though the suburbs are slightly cheaper). Room rates tend to be quoted without tax.

Some restaurants do not take reservations (or only for groups of more than five), while for others, in particular the upscale ones, reservations well in advance are a must, especially on weekends. We indicate a recommendation for the restaurants listed in this book, but it is always a good idea to call and check, especially if you have special needs or dietary requirements.

Breakfast is usually served in diners and coffee shops from about 6–10am. Lunch is normally available from 11:30am–2pm, and dinner takes place between approximately 5–10pm depending on the establishment. Early-bird dinners, normally served from 5–7pm, are usually a good bargain.

Deep-dish pizza, hot dogs, and steaks are Chicago’s main specialties. But in a city where a multitude of cultures meet, so do a multitude of cuisines, so check out the city’s many ethnic restaurants (see Ethnic Eats).

You will find that portions vary hugely from place to place. Often portions at upscale restaurants are smaller, while steakhouses and ethnic eateries offer a more than generous serving.