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Breadcrumbs fried with small pieces of pork – or with cured sausage.
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The Arabic influence in Spain is all-pervasive – it’s strongly felt even in Murcia’s sweets and pastries. Try the caramelized almonds, the fresh yemas (made with egg yolks and lemon) – these are especially good around Caravaca de la Cruz – and paparajotes , exquisitely light lemon or orange pastries delicately flavoured with cinnamon. Irresistible!
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Jumilla, Yecla and Bullas (see Wine Towns) have all been granted their own D.O., and produce a range of whites, reds and rosés. The powerful red wines, usually drunk young, are the best known outside of Spain, but Bullas is also notable for its refreshing rosés – perfect summer drinking.
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These traditional stews, named after the earthenware pot in which they are cooked, are common in the mountainous inland regions, particularly around Alcoi (Alcoy). Most ollas are made with whatever is available, but they usually contain dried beans, chickpeas (garbanzos) and root vegetables, and are flavoured with cured sausage.
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Orxata is a sweet, creamy drink made from ground tiger-nuts (chufas ) – tastier and more refreshing than it might sound. Alicante produces a regional variation made with almonds. In summer, it’s particularly delicious served with crushed ice (orxata granizada ). Look out for the sign “artesanal ” – the home-made varieties are infinitely better than the bottled kind.
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A genuine paella is made with round bomba rice (to soak up the stock), and delicately flavoured with garlic and saffron. Just before completion, the heat is turned up to create a light crust (soccarat ). Everyone has their own recipe, which can include seafood, meat, vegetables or a mixture of all three.
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This local pheasant dish is cooked with beans, bay leaves and garlic.
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This pretty medieval village hosts a brica-brac market on Saturday mornings.
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The family resort of Puerto de Mazarrón is sprawled around a rugged, cove-studded cape. A dusty path wriggles to the top for beautiful sea views from the lighthouse.
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The coastline gets wilder as it heads down the Costa Cálida. The lighthouse at the tip of the Punta del Poniente (north of Águilas) keeps watch over sheer cliffs and scores of tiny islands.
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