The Sun shines, on average, for 300 days of the year on Murcia’s “Warm Coast”, which stretches from Europe’s largest saltwater lagoon, the Mar Menor, down to the wild and rocky coastline around Águilas. If you’re a watersports enthusiast, look no further than La Manga. But venture south and you’ll find, among other delights, the Regional Park of Calblanque, one of the most beautiful stretches of coastline on the Mediterranean; the spectacular scenery of the Cabo Tiñoso; and Cartagena, the region’s largest city, where Roman and Carthaginian ruins rub shoulders with Modernista mansions.
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Morning
Start the day with coffee at one of the beachfront bars on the promenade at Águilas, then head 3 km (2 miles) north out of the town, past the pretty harbour of Calabardine, to Cabo Cope. Climb the 16th-century watchtower, and splash about in the rock pools along the beach.
Return toward Águilas, but take the signposted turning for Garrobillo. The road twists along the mountainous fringes of the Natural Park, providing startling glimpses of the sea. It becomes even more dramatic once you reach Garrobillo, when the road narrows further and zigzags furiously toward Humbrías. When it joins the N332, turn left and stop for lunch at the fantastic roadside Bar Surtidor (Ctra Mazarrón-Águilas Km 15, just before the turning for Cañada de Gallego), a classic country café with a spectacular array of tapas.
Afternoon
Continue past vast tomato greenhouses toward Mazarrón. As you approach the town, follow signs for the Gredas de Bolnuevo. The little resort of Bolnuevo is strung out along a fine, sandy beach, where you can have your second swim of the day. Behind it is the extraordinary “Enchanted City”. If you really want to escape the crowds, explore the quiet coves south of town.
For dinner, head to the port in Mazarrón for delicious seafood at El Puerto (see El Puerto, Puerto de Mazarrón).
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Águilas’s lighthouse stands guard at the southern end of the bay, near the town’s pretty fishing port. Painted in black and white stripes, it looks like something out of a storybook. To complete the picture, above it looms the dramatic castle.
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Nudged up against the border with Andalucía, this quiet resort curls around a broad sandy bay, with spectacular rocky capes at either end and a scattering of volcanic islands rising abruptly from the sea. The delightful port sits at the foot of a steep cliff at the southern end of the bay; it’s full of working fishing boats, which supply delicious fresh fish to the local restaurants. The Castle of San José, beautifully flood-lit at night, looms dramatically from the clifftop. In February, the town hosts one of the biggest carnivals in Spain.
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The elegant curve of Águilas’s bay is broken by strangely shaped volcanic islands, perfect for snorkelling. Long, fine sands and plenty of amenities have made it extremely popular with families.
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The salt lakes in the Regional Park of Calblanque attract numerous birds, as do the protected salt flats around Lo Pagán, on the northern shores of the Mar Menor.
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Bolnuevo’s long, sandy beach is backed by surreal rock formations (see Ciudad Encantada de Bolnuevo, Bolnuevo), and has plenty of cafés and other facilities. To really get away from it all, head south down the coast, where there are dozens of secret coves.
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The view from the huge lighthouse overlooking the fishing village of Cabo de Palos is very different depending on which way you face: on one side, you’ll see the Mediterranean crashing dramatically on the cliffs; on the other, the tranquil waters of the Mar Menor.
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Inhabited since Roman times, Cabo de Palos sits right at the southernmost tip of the long spit separating the Mar Menor from the Mediterranean. An imposing lighthouse offers spectacular views of both seas and the rocky coastline. Despite the influx of tourism, the village has hung onto its long fishing tradition, and trawlers rub shoulders with yachts and gin palaces in the harbour. You’ll find plenty of good seafood restaurants here, but the star attraction is the proximity of the wild and beautiful Regional Park of Calblanque.
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A straggling dirt track leads to the lighthouse at the tip of this wild and beautiful headland, gazing out over crashing waves, long fingers of rock, and tiny, hidden bays.
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On the Mar Menor side of La Manga, this popular beach with fine sand looks out over the islets dotting the inland sea. All kinds of facilities (including a marina) are close at hand.
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