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This handsomely restored building contains a small but lively exhibition geared toward children, outlining the park’s history and the wildlife to be found within its borders. An information desk has maps and leaflets describing walking trails.

These strange, circular brick huts were used to store snow, which was packed into ice, and transported by donkey to the towns to make ice cream. They were used from the 16th century right up until the 1920s.

Tacked onto the eastern end of the Sierra Espuña is the strange lunar landscape of the Barrancos de Gebas, known as the “bad lands” (tierras malas ), where the lushness of the sierra gives way to a startling succession of arid ravines and gullies.

The park is rich in bird life, particularly raptors, among them golden, booted and Bonelli’s eagles, eagle and tawny owls, peregrine falcon, Dupont’s lark, goshawk and hawk owl.

Thrusting up through forest, the stony peaks of the Sierra de Espuña are a glorious sight. At 1,583 m (5,194 ft), Espuña is the highest. Pedro López (1,507 m; 4,944 ft) is also magnificent.

The indigenous forest has been substantially supplemented by pine. You may well see wild sheep, squirrels, bats and wild boars; mountain cats are less common.

The drive through the park is extraordinary; the road twists up through the Collado Bermejo, offering a staggering panorama of jutting crags and plunging valleys, then down again through flower-strewn woodland to the Casa Forestal.

The park is full of excellent walking trails geared toward walkers of all levels. Choose from simple woodland paths suitable for families to tougher hikes across the peaks. The information points provide maps and leaflets on the trails.

Throughout the park there is a series of miradors (viewing points) which offer staggering views over peaks, forest and riverbeds. The finest views are from Espuña and the Morrón Chico.

Alhama de Murcia is not the most charming town in the area, but it’s the easiest access point for the Sierra Espuña, and a good place to buy picnic supplies or find a hotel.