Murcia is Spain at its most authentic and unspoilt. Enchanting villages spill down hillsides topped with ruined castles bequeathed by the soldier-knights who ruled here after the Reconquest; verdant fields and orchards recall the Arabs who first cultivated these lands. The Romans brought the vine, and wine is still produced in the charming wine towns of Jumilla, Bullas and Yecla – the perfect accompaniment to the robust mountain cuisine served in countless country restaurants. Wild sierras fan out to the furthest corners of the province; the loveliest of them all, the magnificent Regional Park of the Sierra de Espuña, is a stunning, forested mountain range, scattered with ancient snow wells, and home to a wonderful variety of animal and bird life. Murcia City bursts with extravagant Baroque churches and palaces, and its sumptuous cathedral (see Catedral de Santa María, Murcia), 400 years in the making, is one of the finest in Spain.
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Morning
Allow a full day for this drive, which includes time for hiking. Begin at the little mountain village of Aledo, with panoramic views of peaks and valleys, before following the signs for Bullas and turning off at the Sierra de Espuña Regional Park. Just within the park boundaries, stop at the information kiosk for a map, then continue along the twisting mountain road, which offers breathtaking glimpses of forested crags. The left-hand turn sign-posted pozos de nieve will take you to the snow wells, reached by a path from the small car park at the crook of the road. This is a great place for a hike. Return to the Collado Bermejo and take the right-hand fork through forests and glades of wild flowers to the visitor information centre and exhibition. Have lunch at the nearby Fuente del Hielo, where wild boar snuffle fearlessly at the doorway for dropped crumbs.
Afternoon
Next, take the signposted road for the little hamlet of El Berro, close to the arid wilderness of the Barrancos de Gebas, otherwise known as the “Bad Lands”. There are panoramic views from the Caserío de Gebas on the C3315. The road leads north to Pliego, a sleepy village topped with a ruined tower, and on to Mula , with its fascinating medieval centre and striking ruined castle. Join the locals for an old-fashioned country dinner at the Venta La Magdalena (see Venta La Magdalena, Baños de Mula).
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Sink into the cushions at this magical Arabic-style tearoom and bar, where you can choose from more than 80 different infusions – plus wonderful Moroccan pastries.
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The peaceful medieval village of Aledo is huddled tightly behind vestiges of ancient walls, on a rocky outcrop that juts out alarmingly over the surrounding valley. Perched at the tip of the village is a watchtower, surrounded by a modern walkway offering beautiful views over the terraced hillsides and distant peaks. Three km (2 miles) away, an elegant 18th-century sanctuary with a richly carved artesonado ceiling houses a much-venerated image of the local patron saint, Santa Eulalia. Aledo sits on the borders of the wonderful Regional Park of the Sierra de Espuña.
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There is little to see in the sleepy market town of Archena besides the florid Baroque Church of San Juan Batista and a few neglected aristocratic mansions, but its spa (Balneario de Archena) has been famous since Roman times. Prettily located in a cool palm grove on the banks of the River Segura, the spa has grown into a miniature village, complete with a delightful chapel and 19th-century casino. There are three hotels (see Mountain Retreats), and a whole range of health and beauty treatments are on offer.
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Murcia is famous for its beautifully crafted belenes , the figures used to decorate traditional nativity scenes at Christmas. This old-fashioned shop sells a host of figures, from angels and saints to farmers and fishermen.
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If you are planning a picnic, stop off at this traditional bakery for some empanadas , the traditional pastries stuffed with all kinds of fillings from tuna to ham. There’s also a vegetarian version made with pisto (like ratatouille).
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Calasparra overlooks a lush valley on the banks of the River Segura; settlers have been drawn to this area since neolithic times. During the Middle Ages, it was an important frontier settlement controlled by the Order of the Knights of Malta, who built its 13th-century castle. Now, it’s a serene agricultural town surrounded by a sea of blossom in spring, and golden rice fields in the autumn. Rice dishes feature prominently on local menus (see Rice), along with pungent cured sausages and hams.
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This local favourite specializes in mountain stews made with beans and flavoured with cured meat.
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The golden town of Caravaca de la Cruz is spectacularly set among the rugged sierras of northeastern Murcia. After the Reconquest, the town passed to the Knights Templar, who built the handsome castle, which still dominates the town. This contains Caravaca’s greatest treasure, the Sanctuario de la Vera Cruz, which houses a relic of the True Cross, brought here, according to legend, by two angels in 1231. The miracle is commemorated annually on 3 May, when the relic is processed through the streets. A handsome ensemble of medieval and Renaissance mansions and churches are clustered in the old town.
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Carnival is an excuse to party hard across the region. Águilas really goes to town as parades process riotously through the streets and parties erupt in every bar and square.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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