The windswept capes and enticing coves of the northern Costa Blanca have attracted settlers for thousands of years, but the trickle became a deluge during the 1960s. It’s easy to see the allure of the magnificent coastline, with its jagged cliffs and secret coves of turquoise water, but the coastal strip is only half the story. Just a few miles inland, remote sierras and lush valleys survive untouched, with whitewashed villages dreaming on hilltops, waterfalls plunging into natural pools, and ruined castles and ancient towns recalling an illustrious past.
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This walk is best done on a Thursday, when the market is held. A castle has sat on the lofty promontory above the historic town of Xàtiva since Iberian times. Start your morning – before the sun gets too hot – with the stiff climb up to the castle (signposted “castell”), or take the easy option of the little tourist train which runs from outside the tourist office. From the castle ramparts, the lovely old city unfolds at your feet, surrounded by endless sierras. One of the finest and most complete castles in the region, this is a sublime setting for a music festival held every August.
On the way down, you can stop for refreshment in the gardens of the charming Hostería de Mont Sant, Xàtiva (Játiva) . When you reach the main town, continue down Calle las Santas and turn right onto Calle Roca for the Museo de l’Almudí (see Museo del Calzado, Elda), with an excellent collection of archeological finds and paintings (including some by Xàtiva-born artist José de Ribera). If you are here on market day, head down to the nearby Plaza del Mercado, where stalls selling everything from fresh produce to pots and pans are set out under ancient arcades. Walk up to the Calle Corretgeria and visit the huge Colegiata de Santa María (see Colegiata Basílica de Santa María, Xàtiva (Játiva)), still unfinished after more than 400 years. Opposite the basilica is the beautiful Hospital Real (now local administration offices), with a dazzling, exquisitely sculpted Gothic façade. For lunch, try the traditional Casa La Abuela (C/Reina 17; 962 28 10 85).
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The romantic dry-stone ruins of this ancient Arabic village close to Alcalà de la Jovada in the Vall de Gallinera are great for picnics. A stiff path leads to the rocky peak of La Fordada for fantastic views.
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One of the best places to try an authentic paella , this brightly lit eaterie is a favourite with locals and tourists alike. It also serves tasty, simply grilled local meat.
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This huge discoteca has four spaces: “La Discoteca” for the latest dance music; “Dream” for techno and house; “Happy” for pop music; and “La Terraza” for ambient sounds.
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Alcoi (see Círculo Industrial, Alcoi (Alcoy), Moros y Cristianos (Moors and Christians)) is famous in the region for traditional sweets first introduced by the Arabs. Most cake shops sell sugared almonds and the tasty sugar-coated pine nuts called peladillas .
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The pretty village of (Altea) was “discovered” by artists during the 1960s and ’70s, and is filled with galleries and craft shops selling everything from watercolours to pottery and hand-made jewellery.
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Bacarra’s “disco-garden” is the place to be during the hot summer months. There are all kinds of events, from DJs to live gigs, go-go dancers and special one-off theme parties.
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The track for the Barranc del Encanta is signposted just before Planes. It twists crazily down to the “Enchanted Ravine”, a perfect picnic spot, where a waterfall tumbles into a natural swimming pool.
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Brash, brazen Benidorm (see Playa de Poniente and Playa de Levante, Benidorm) is the place to go if you’re looking for kitsch souvenirs. It’s also a great place to find cheap t-shirts and a huge variety of beachwear to suit all tastes and budgets.
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Come here for the biggest, flashiest and most extravagant shows in town, with acrobats, cabaret singers and the famous show girls. You can dine as you watch, or just have a drink.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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Moors and Christians FestivalThe Moors and Christians Festival is one of the major celebrations in Alicante's calendar, a mixture of religion, history and street carnival. Read more
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Terra MíticaLocated on Spain's east coast in Benidorm, Terra Mítica (Land of Myths) offers the chance to explore ancient Mediterranean civilisations through themed rides, shows, restaurants and shops. Read more
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