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This walk is best done on a Thursday, when the market is held. A castle has sat on the lofty promontory above the historic town of Xàtiva since Iberian times. Start your morning – before the sun gets too hot – with the stiff climb up to the castle (signposted “castell”), or take the easy option of the little tourist train which runs from outside the tourist office. From the castle ramparts, the lovely old city unfolds at your feet, surrounded by endless sierras. One of the finest and most complete castles in the region, this is a sublime setting for a music festival held every August.

On the way down, you can stop for refreshment in the gardens of the charming Hostería de Mont Sant, Xàtiva (Játiva) . When you reach the main town, continue down Calle las Santas and turn right onto Calle Roca for the Museo de l’Almudí (see Museo del Calzado, Elda), with an excellent collection of archeological finds and paintings (including some by Xàtiva-born artist José de Ribera). If you are here on market day, head down to the nearby Plaza del Mercado, where stalls selling everything from fresh produce to pots and pans are set out under ancient arcades. Walk up to the Calle Corretgeria and visit the huge Colegiata de Santa María (see Colegiata Basílica de Santa María, Xàtiva (Játiva)), still unfinished after more than 400 years. Opposite the basilica is the beautiful Hospital Real (now local administration offices), with a dazzling, exquisitely sculpted Gothic façade. For lunch, try the traditional Casa La Abuela (C/Reina 17; 962 28 10 85).