Alicante (Alacant), capital of the Costa Blanca , boasts an enticing old quarter piled chaotically around the lower slopes of a vast cliff, where a magnificent fortress has stood guard for 1,000 years. Modern avenues are packed with fantastic shopping, and the tapeo (a bar crawl between tapas bars) is an institution. Inland, parched plains give way to mountains riddled with caves and scattered with medieval villages and ancient castles, which recall the region’s position on the front line between the Arabic and Christian worlds during the Middle Ages. The modest town of Novelda is the unexpected setting for an architectural gem from the more recent past. Along the coastline, long, sandy beaches make up for the lack of dramatic scenery, and you can escape the crowds on the lovely island of Tabarca. Heading south, the elegant town of Elx (Elche) is surrounded by ancient palm groves first established by the Phoenicans, and Orihuela’s affluent and aristocratic history is recalled by a beautiful ensemble of Gothic churches and Renaissance palaces.
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This excellent jazz bar, with live performances, poetry readings, tertúlias (discussion groups) and temporary art exhibitions, is a great place to relax in the evenings.
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Morning
Allow a full day (Tue to Sat) for this tour of two elegant but very different cities. Begin in Orihuela, at the tourist office, housed in a splendid Baroque palace on Calle Francisco Die. Peek into the Gothic church of Santiago before doubling back to the delightful church of Santas Just y Rufina, with its unmistakable bell tower. The Calle Sant Just leads into the Calle Ramón y Cajal, lined with terrace cafés and shops, where the graceful Catedral de San Salvador overlooks a pretty square. Continue west to the vast Colegio de Santo Domingo, topped with a pastel tower seemingly made of icing sugar. Head back into the historic centre for lunch at Casablanca (C/Meca 1; 965 30 10 29), which serves delicious, hearty traditional stews.
Afternoon
Take the short drive along the A7 motorway to Elx, set in famous palm groves. Explore the Hort del Cura (see Hort del Cura, Elx (Elche)), then stroll back to the historic heart of the town and the vast blue-domed Basílica de Santa María. Next to the basilica is a 13th-century watchtower, the Torre de Calaforra. You can learn more about the famous Misteri d’Elx, the last surviving medieval mystery play in Europe, at the nearby Museo de la Festa on Carrer Major de la Vila. Finish up with a well-earned drink on the terrace of the Café Paris (Plaza del Congreso Eucarístico) overlooking the cathedral.
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Agost’s long ceramic-making tradition dates back for centuries, and dozens of shops sell the earthenware water jars (botijos ) typical of the region, along with a range of ceramic items from pots to platters.
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The ultimate one-stop shopping destination, Alicante has the biggest department stores, plus plenty of large high-street chain shops, all lined up along the Avenida Maisonnave.
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The main gateway to the Costa Blanca, the big, bustling city of Alicante is often overlooked in the charge to the beaches and resorts, yet this is one of Spain’s most engaging cities, with a picturesque old quarter, a collection of beautiful churches and fascinating museums, and a lively port with plenty of bars and restaurants. The whole city is dominated by the splendid Castillo de Santa Bárbara, high on a cliff above the sea (see Castillo de Santa Bárbara, Alicante).
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This big, airy seafood restaurant sits right on the port, so you know the fish is fresh. All kinds of shellfish are on the menu, along with tasty rice specialities.
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This sophisticated bar in Alicante’s Hotel Melia offers perfectly mixed cocktails in a formal yet comfortable setting. Sink into an armchair and sip your drink as the resident jazz pianist tinkles away.
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For a family night out, try this big bowling alley, which has a café and an amusement arcade with slot machines to go with the ranks of bowling lanes.
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This long-established cafébar in the old quarter serves good tapas and raciones downstairs; upstairs, there’s a fancier restaurant, with delicious seafood and rice dishes.
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This beachside club with an outdoor dance area is a classic on the summer nightclub scene. Spanish pop is interspersed with house and techno.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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Moors and Christians FestivalThe Moors and Christians Festival is one of the major celebrations in Alicante's calendar, a mixture of religion, history and street carnival. Read more
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Terra MíticaLocated on Spain's east coast in Benidorm, Terra Mítica (Land of Myths) offers the chance to explore ancient Mediterranean civilisations through themed rides, shows, restaurants and shops. Read more
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Santa Faz PilgrimageEvery year around 200,000 people walk to the Monasterio de Santa Faz on the second-largest pilgrimage in Spain. Starting at around 8am, the route wends its way along 8km of road from Alicante's town... Read more
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Alcoi Moors and Christians FestivalAlcoi stages a spectacular re-enactment of the battle between the Moors and the Christians as part of the celebrations to honour Saint George, patron of the region. Read more
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