Although it could not be more Greek, Crete is really a country within a country, with its own history, folklore and traditions. It was the birthplace of Europe’s oldest civilization, the enigmatic Minoan culture which flourished over 4,000 years ago. Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Saracens, Venetians and Turks also left their mark. This rich human heritage is set against the backdrop of magnificent mountain scenery and beaches lapped by a deep blue sea.
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A major rendezvous point for excursion groups who arrive by boat having walked the Samaria Gorge. Once they have found their coaches, the town returns to its pleasant slumber.
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Chrysi (“Golden”), so named for its sandy beaches, is known locally as Gaidouronisi (“Donkey Island”) because of the Cretan habit of retiring elderly donkeys to uninhabited islands. Daily boat trips from Ierapetra take 30–45 minutes in summer.
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Crete’s Orthodox monks and nuns embellish sumptuous church vestments with gold, silver and silk stitching.
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The Archangel Michael, leader of the heavenly host, is known in Greek as “O Taxiarchis” (the Brigadier) and is depicted in armour, sword in hand, along with other saints in the frescoes within the pretty 14th-century church at Asomatos.
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The big, breezy self-service café beside the Morosini Fountain offers cold drinks, snacks, pizza, pasta and cooked breakfasts.
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Cretans acquired a taste for spices during the Turkish and Venetian trading eras. Today, cinnamon flavours desserts like rizokalo (rice pudding) and sweet pies.
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The eight-hour ascent of the 2,456-m (8,055-ft) Mt Idi (also called Psiloritis), Crete’s highest mountain, begins on the Nida Plateau. An arduous climb, it should be attempted only by experienced walkers.
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Unassuming white wine made from Romeiko grapes from the Kissamos area.
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Coriander is used fresh as a flavouring and garnish for stews, grills and salads.
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Owned by an expatriate Belgian, Mike’s offers sweet and savoury crepes on a breezy terrace by the sea.
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