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Only for very fit and experienced walkers, this is the longest and most arduous trek in Crete, a circuit of the island that takes at least 30 days to complete.

This is the most important celebration of the Greek year. It is predominantly a family affair, focusing on the home, where spit-roasted goat is the highlight of a day of eating and drinking. More formal, religious processions are led by fabulously attired priests or monks and are often followed by fireworks. At Agios Nikolaos, Easter culminates with the burning of an effigy of Judas Iscariot.

Born in the twilight years of Venetian rule in Crete, Domenikos Theotokopoulos (1541–1614) studied the icon painters of the Cretan School; their influence can be seen in the elongated features of his subjects and his vivid use of colour. He trained under Titian in Italy, then moved to Toledo, where he acquired his Spanish nickname of El Greco: “the Greek”.

Copies of paintings and biographical material relating to the life of the Cretan-born artist Domenikos Theotokopoulos, better known as El Greco, are displayed in an extensively restored Venetian building in Fodele village, which is claimed to be his birthplace.

One of Chania’s most popular restaurants, set within the ruins of a Venetian mansion. The menu is wide in scope, combining traditional Greek dishes with international favourites, as well as a few more authentically Cretan offerings. (see Ela, Chania)

The superb beach opposite the island of Elafonisi on the west coast is one of Crete’s best, with a long crescent of white sand and shallow turquoise water that warms up quickly in summer. Very busy.

With its sandy beach and vivid blue lagoon, the tiny, tropical-looking island of Elafonisi is barely separable from the Crete shoreline. Daily boat trips from Palaiochora (May–Sep) take an hour each way (see Elafonisi).

This tiny islet, a stone’s throw from the mainland, may in Venetian or Byzantine times have been a preserve for deer, for its name means “deer island”. Between Elafonisi and the shore is a lagoon of turquoise water. It is possible to reach the island simply by wading (see Elafonisi).

Multinational restaurant including Italian, Chinese and Indian thali dishes as well as many Greek favourites.