Although it could not be more Greek, Crete is really a country within a country, with its own history, folklore and traditions. It was the birthplace of Europe’s oldest civilization, the enigmatic Minoan culture which flourished over 4,000 years ago. Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Saracens, Venetians and Turks also left their mark. This rich human heritage is set against the backdrop of magnificent mountain scenery and beaches lapped by a deep blue sea.
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It is hard to believe that this desolate hamlet was an important place during Venetian occupation, when it was the fief of the De Mezzo family. Their ruined family tower is now recognized as an important Venetian building, worthy of restoration.
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Endemic to Crete, the tough evergreen plane has evolved to cope with the harsh island environment.
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Red sea bream, prized for its delicate white flesh, is grilled and served whole and is one of the most expensive fish dishes on the menu.
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This long sweep of yellow sand is one of the finest on the west coast, and has yet to be exploited by the tourist industry – though there are a few places to stay.
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Growing profusely in the countryside, this member of the aniseed family is used to flavour ouzo , the national drink.
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The biggest celebration to mark the day of Crete’s patron saint is at Irakleio, where icons and relics are carried through the streets with great pomp. The saint’s day is also celebrated at churches across the island.
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Many processions and celebrations abound at Agios Nikolaos to celebrate the town’s patron saint, who is also venerated all over the island.
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The Festival of the Virgin Mary (Apokimisis tis Panayias ) is second only to Easter and tends to be a much more public celebration. Church processions are followed by open-air eating and drinking in the churchyard or village square, in turn followed by music and dancing until the early hours.
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Delightful café-bar midway along the mole that encloses the Venetian harbour. The best place in town for a sunset drink, with views across the water to the old town.
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A small, deserted “Castle of the Franks” – actually built in 1371 by the Venetians to defend this stretch of the south coast against pirate attacks (see Frangokastello) – gives this small fishing village and resort its name. The Lion of St Mark, symbol of the Venetian Republic, still adorns the town’s southern gateway. Frangokastello has a long sweep of grey sandy beach, and offers, by way of accommodation, small pensions and apartments. A handful of restaurants and cafés open up in summer, but the choice of places to eat, drink and stay is very limited in the low season.
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