Although it could not be more Greek, Crete is really a country within a country, with its own history, folklore and traditions. It was the birthplace of Europe’s oldest civilization, the enigmatic Minoan culture which flourished over 4,000 years ago. Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Saracens, Venetians and Turks also left their mark. This rich human heritage is set against the backdrop of magnificent mountain scenery and beaches lapped by a deep blue sea.
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The remains of a Hellenistic wall, foundations of two early Christian basilicas, and toppled walls and columns are the only indications that this was once an important city. It flourished until early medieval times, when it was destroyed by Saracen raiders.
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In a lane just off the main square, Itanos claims to be the resort’s only authentic taverna – a claim that looks increasingly shaky as tourism continues to grow. Neverthless, the taverna serves good, affordable Cretan meals and wine, and is always busy.
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Despite the introduction of rules limiting their use, jet skis can still be rented at all major resorts.
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Bright and cheerful café-bar, offering fresh fruit juice and yoghurt for breakfast and cold drinks throughout the day. An internet café is upstairs.
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A rare authentic taverna, serving thimbles of Greek coffee and early-morning glasses of tsikondia (a strong spirit) to a clientele of venerable locals.
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A simple, old-fashioned ouzeri on the town’s main street. Do not expect a list of sophisticated cocktails; do expect an authentic Cretan atmosphere.
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Frequented more by locals than visitors, Kali Kardia (“Good Heart”) makes few concessions to tourist tastes. Authentic meze, from local cheeses to grilled snails, are washed down with strong Cretan retsina straight from the barrel.
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Dining aboard a floating pontoon moored in Elounda’s small fishing harbour, with a mix of Greek and international dishes.
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Situated between two sandy beaches on Souda Bay, this hotel overlooks the river and has 150 rooms in two wings, each with a pool. There is an attractive riverside terrace restaurant, and a bridge leads the way to the beach.
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This friendly taverna offers home-cooked meals, set at outside tables overhung by tamarisk trees.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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