Although it could not be more Greek, Crete is really a country within a country, with its own history, folklore and traditions. It was the birthplace of Europe’s oldest civilization, the enigmatic Minoan culture which flourished over 4,000 years ago. Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Saracens, Venetians and Turks also left their mark. This rich human heritage is set against the backdrop of magnificent mountain scenery and beaches lapped by a deep blue sea.
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A relatively remote and peaceful series of small beaches and coves among dramatic cliffs. But the offshore oil tanker terminal rather mars the view.
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This cave on Mount Idi’s southern face lends its name to the sophisticated Minoan pottery discovered here.
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Karnagio serves substantial taverna meals, the traditional favourites including grilled meats and huge peasant salads with feta cheese.
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Also on Chania’s Venetian harbour is Karnagio. It offers a good range of traditional dishes, as well as grilled chicken, pork and lamb, huge peasant salads and a slender range of fish dishes. Pleasantly set in a walled courtyard (see Karnagio, Chania).
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Sweet and refreshing pink cubes of chilled watermelon are among the most popular summertime meze.
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Usually known simply as Kastelli, Crete’s westernmost town is couched in a bay between the Rodopou and Gramvoussa peninsulas. It has largely missed out on the tourism boom, although it has a handful of hotels and restaurants. There are several rarely-visited ancient and medieval sites nearby, including the ruins of Polyrinia (see Venetian Acropolis and Polyrinia), and there are reasonable – if unexceptional by Cretan standards – beaches on either side of town.
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Between Palaiocastro and Kouremenos beach, the Kastri Village has 32 self-catering apartments with kitchenettes, verandahs and a pool. The beach is close by.
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With its long stretch of sand and shingle and growing number of package holiday hotels, this is one of the better beaches close to Irakleio.
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At the foot of the Zakros Gorge, Kato Zakros has a crescent of sand and pebble beach, with a small fishing harbour and a handful of pensions and tavernas.
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to eat in the Chersonisos resort area. The house speciality is tender lamb kleftiko , roasted slowly in a paper wrapping with garlic, lemon and herbs.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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