Although it could not be more Greek, Crete is really a country within a country, with its own history, folklore and traditions. It was the birthplace of Europe’s oldest civilization, the enigmatic Minoan culture which flourished over 4,000 years ago. Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Saracens, Venetians and Turks also left their mark. This rich human heritage is set against the backdrop of magnificent mountain scenery and beaches lapped by a deep blue sea.
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Coves and sandy beaches attract boats from Makrygialos, while the remains of a Roman amphitheatre attest to a time when the island grew rich from the trade of murex, a sea mollusc from which imperial purple dye was made.
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Kouremenos is less than ideal for sunbathing because of strong breezes for most of the year. Those same breezes, however, make it a favourite windsurfing spot, with best conditions in summer usually in the afternoon.
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Kournas nestles at the foot of Mt Dafnomadara, in a fertile plain close to Crete’s only freshwater lake. Its old stone houses cluster around a steep main street, and the village has two historic Byzantine-Venetian churches, dedicated to Agios Georgios and Agia Irene.
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Frogs, terrapins and tiny water snakes splash and slither in freshwater pools at the bottom of the pretty canyon which emerges near Plakias on the south coast.
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Hillside holiday village above the Libyan Sea, with a choice of restored stone cottages, with modern kitchens and bathrooms, or fully up-todate studios. All have verandahs or tiny gardens, and there is a pool, snack bar and taverna next door.
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Sweeping mountain views and a reputation as one of the craft centres of eastern Crete ensures that Kritsa sees its fair share of tourism. Its main street, lined with old stone buildings, is packed with shops selling leather satchels and sandals, embroidery and brightly patterned rugs. Some 30 minutes’ walk from Kritsa is the minor archaeological site of Lato, where you can see the remains of a Classical Greek city.
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Overlooked by Mt Kastelleos, Kritsa stands at the edge of a wide and fertile plain and is regarded as one of Crete’s most important craft centres.
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This little taverna in the old quarter serves plain, village-style dishes. It fairly bustles in the evenings but is quieter at lunch time. Great value.
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A friendly little taverna on a quiet alley in Rethymno’s old town, near the famous Rimondi fountain. Kyria Maria serves village style dishes and is usually bustling in the evenings but quieter at lunchtime (see Kyria Maria, Rethymno).
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Attracting more holidaymakers than locals, Jetee’s fancy drinks carry equally fancy prices. Overlooking the sandy beach on the west side of Paleochora, it is at its liveliest in the evening.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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